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I definitely felt ABS kick in when I had it enabled. It wasn't necessarily intrusive though. This probably sounds stupid, but I'm kinda OCD about trying to chase a pure driving experience with little to no computer aids. The challenge of mastering threshold braking without flat-spotting tires is part of the allure for me.
The ABS hate started when I was really enjoying a rain session at MSRC (with ABS kicking in frequently) and my instructor said, "Good job, but try doing this in the wet without ABS like on my NA Miata." This was the "hold my beer/challenge accepted" moment when I decided to disable ABS and prove to myself that I didn't have to rely on ABS to save my ass.
Maybe I should just buy an older, carbureted car with no computer aids to chase that experience? In the meantime, I'm going to try to find ways to take my relatively modern NC Miata back to the stone ages. However, it seems that my ABS disable solution is not the right approach per Derek's feedback - so I need to do more research there.
buy my first gen RX7.. ~200whp, ~1800-1850lbs (without driver. I've forgotten how much ballast I have in it to get to 2190 w/ driver). solid axle, no ABS, no traction control, no power steering. A proper driver can do 1.42 at MSRH in it, possibly faster- but you'll be sideways the hole time to make it happen. Put on your big boy pants and drive a REAL race car.
Has anybody ever worked in a position like this? Asking for a friend. You can pm me as well.
Everyone I know that's been a track manager or event manager wants to shoot themselves. ridiculous hours, gone every single weekend, long hours at a desk doing email, scheduling, and 'social marketing' when you're not gone.. I wouldn't touch it for less than 150k, and certainly avoid it if you're married with children and have an option elsewhere.
FWIW, most rental karts are pretty 'haphazardly chosen' and are quite inconsistent. this is very dependent on track (and their maintenance crew), age, and how hard a particular track is on karts.
I know I'm certainly not the best driver out there, but I was playing at Speedsportz last weekend in their rental karts. my 240lb self was only ~1.4sec behind the track owner's teenage son (Aden), who regularly runs up front in his current race class. there was another teenage racer there that I didn't know that also ran faster than me. I was also ~1.7sec faster than one of the (small/fit) adults who just won a championship in a 206 class.
I had never been on that track and have turned maybe 20 laps in a kart in the last 8-10 years. so I SHOULDN'T be that fast!
anyway, it's still a good way- and the cheapest- to get your feet wet in kart racing. there are also various kart shops that will do an arrive & drive real race kart for you on a club race weekend. write a check, show up, race. (if you wreck, be ready to write a bigger check).
If/when you're ready to actually buy a kart, the 206 classes are the cheapest way to get started. There are 206 karts that show up regularly for sale anywhere from $1000-4000. a new 206 engine straight from Briggs costs $550 or so and blueprinted ones built by a shop are roughly $1200. a use chassis goes anywhere from free (like the beater I was given) to $5000 for a new top-flight chassis with all the gizmos.
tires are about $250/set and you can mount them yourself with basic tools. tires last 2 weekends for "medium-fast" people. 1 weekend if you want to finish top 3 every weekend. most guys use tires for 2 weekends and replace. some go 3-4 weekends, but they're mid pack or back..
race entry is $65-250, depending on event.
some tracks use pump gas, others require a spec fuel like VP MS93. the MS93 is about $70/ 5gal can. I don't know how long it lasts in a 206 kart, but I would say cost is less than $20/day to race. (my daughter's kid kart with 50cc engine uses about 5 gallons in a whole SEASON. so fuel costs are low even though it's $15/gallon)
It's a bit late to chime in, but one thing to consider is the ability to refill the system yourself and maintain any certifications. some of the AFFF systems (and ALL of the "halon style" systems) require a certified 3rd party to refill the bottles in the event you blow one.. some brands are user-refillable with a $75 refill kit.
Also to maintain SFI certification, they must be removed and inspected every few years by the manufacturer (or certified delegate).. that's not necessarily a concern for a TT car when you are installing it as a non-required option, but if you ever decide to go racing, this is a concern. SCCA's rules state that you must have an SFI or FIA certified system, but they never actually CHECK that certification at local races (they might if you go to Runoffs, but the locals are just happy to see it intact).. if your fire bottle is over 3 or 5 yrs old and hasn't been inspected, then it's no longer compliant/ certified per the rules. I think that's just a loophole that everyone ignores.
That all said, I *accidentally* popped my bottle at COTA last fall while I was working under the dash to repair a brake problem. I was trying to unhook the cable from the bottle so I could disconnect the other end of the cable, and I forgot to remove CO2 cartridge before pulling the cable open to disconnect.. *PSSSSSHHH* sheeeeit. good thing I had a small 5lb extinguisher in the trailer with a proper metal bracket. we cleaned up the mess in the COTA garage and I screwed the portable guy into the floor of the car as the backup. NOW I have to mail my bottle off to have it inspected, refilled, and recertified..
Next time I buy one, I will buy a different brand that I can refill myself and maintain SFI certification.
Better leave the cap off your radiator then! I've had more plastic radiator tanks and rubber heater hoses rupture than expansion tank problems.
In any case - anyone have a good suggestion for sealing a radiator cap? I'm using the standard Miata radiator, but relocating it lower. I don't want any coolant to leak from that cap. I'll fill from the expansion tank, which will also have a standard radiator cap with pressure valve.
I know I know.. it's a mental thing.. but 230F steam is way meaner than 230F liquid if you just happen to be shot in the face with either.
Look for Greddy 12400907. It's the dummy cap that comes with their swirl tanks- intended exactly for this purpose.
I would caution 500lb on Koni yellows, definitely not above that. My dad has been running 500/400 on his 240SX with Koni yellow, and the damping is underwhelming. I'm trying to talk him into going to an 8610 setup.
Pegasus is an established company, founded and operated by people who believe in eye contact and handshakes-- and most of the employees are racers themselves! Their prices may be a bit higher than other "big box parts stores" like Summit, but their product knowledge and customer service are second to none. They are my first call when I need something strange and need a smart person to help make sure I get the right parts to make it happen. A+++ will buy again.
sounds like a reasonable plan.. start there. :) you know the track well enough that you should be able to easily pick up the line in a RWD car with more torque and build on your memory.
.... and just remember that right now, lap times don't matter as much as consistency and day-to-day improvement... let the first day at the track be a refresher course in the line and learning what the car needs--- you'll carry different lines in many turns due to RWD, and you will likely brake considerably earlier due to the higher HP and weight.
there is a different driving style needed with RWD cars, but the main issue is to not get too happy with the loud pedal as that much torque can get turned around pretty quickly where a FWD car would simply understeer. I had to be much smoother on inputs in the RWD car to be fast. my old FWD car liked being manhandled-- you had to brake late into the corner and throw the car in to get the weight transferred and the car rotated, then get back on the gas to settle the chassis and drive out.
in the RWD car I brake earlier and shorter, and am on the gas much earlier in the turn so I can accelerate through the exit. in a RWD car, you steer with the gas pedal. in a FWD car, you steer with the brake pedal. ;)