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DEI also makes many types of heat shield applications which would do well for those applications. My muffler is wrapped as well as the section exhaust that's close to my rear shock, plus several layers of it on the floor of the car above the exhaust. Rotaries run dang hot-- enough that I melted some wires to my DAQ that were laying on the floor of the cabin. I had to insulate the exhaust, two layers under the floor, and another on top of the floor. this now gets the floor down to 'hot to the touch' in that area..
They also have the same stuff in a muffler shield kit that omits the plastic + adhesive on the inside of the fiberglass, and includes stainless steel straps and and tensioning tool so you can strap it to the muffler and crank straps down tight.
even removing the adhesive and stuff from the muffler kit, I still wound up with some smoke and nasty smells coming off the muffler for the first few sessions on track after installation. again, point at the rotary-- EGTs at the header are ~1600F and the exhaust gets even hotter as the engine spins so fast the fuel is still burning in the exhaust. when I first put the engine together, my timing was off and my header was glowing bright orange with the car just idling in the garage!!
anyway, that stuff should help to reduce hot spots in the car..
multiple other issues/concerns with under-car exhaust..
1. proximity to fuel tank and plastic stuff. many of today's cars have molded plastic fuel tanks in the vicinity of the "rear seat"/ subframe area. dumping exhaust in that general area would likely not be a great idea. crawl under the car and use good judgement to ensure you don't melt crap and burn your car down.
2. engine tuning. exhausts are tuned both by diameter and length. I've seen/heard of some pretty amazing changes to a car's powerband just by changing the exhaust length a few inches. I've seen guys go to a dyno with multiple exhaust layouts and lengths of pipe and play on the dyno. when they come up with the best combination of length and diameter to get the best powerband, they will then build the exhaust around that parameter and make it fit under the car. (saving that extra 5lbs isn't worth crap if you lose 20hp!!!)
I'm pretty confident you'll be Ok on the trans. the symptoms point to classic TOB failure, and you caught it pretty quick.
the fluid color is likely from some mixing of whatever was left of the old fluid- you never get 100% of it out on a drain/fill. you have to split the case and warsh the whole durn thing to get all the old fluid out, and it's just not necessary.
If it were my car, I'd keep the old disc and pressure plate as a backup, but obviously chunk the TOB. pick up a replacement TOB and pilot bushing and keep in your emergency spares. not sure if that's something you'd want to take to the track, but I keep a rplacement clutch and whatnot in my trailer for the race car. It takes about 1.5-2hrs to pull and replace the trans using hand tools, so a clutch replacement is doable at the track if I'm out of town and it breaks. probably not worth it for a street car though.
Ive driven another two seasons on rotors that look like that. you're fine. I only replace them when the crack gets large enough to hang a fingernail or goes to the outside edge. before they'll catch a fingernail, the cracks are usually 1" or so long.
Put a set of Hawk Black/ Blue pads on those and do a few hard stops on cold pads. you'll machine those rotors down and all that crap will disappear. :)
Which track? There are groups/businesses local to each track that have cars for rent.
But for a first-time HPDE kind of person, you'll want a street car with a passenger seat and quiet enough to talk, not a race car.
Hmm. I think I should be able to figure out the track by doing lead follow and riding in the passenger seat with an experienced driver (I actually just don’t like the idea of paying extra for an instructor). :D
Do yourself a favor and pay the little bit for the instructor. you'll get faster, quicker. Hallett isn't a hard track to get around, but it's a hard track to get around quickly, and there's a few places where the line is in a strange place. (like turn 4).
You go off T1 or T2 at 90 and you may be in a tire wall.
Agreed, not too difficult to get around, but being fast is just like any other track in knowing where you can/should push it. OTOH, off track i very bumpy and will claim a splitter in very short order. Totally not like Cresson where you can stay in the gas and drive a full straight on the grass!
Ya, definitely cold. I couldn't get the car started Sat morning because it was so cold the oil viscosity kept the engine from turning fast enough to build compression and light off. it was cranking about 150rpm and I had 120+PSI of oil pressure while cranking!!!
add carbs and no chokes, and it was a little iffy if it would start! We wound up rolling the car back in the trailer (pushing it uphill both ways!), and putting a propane heater under the front of the car. 1hr of that and the thing was finally warm enough to crank over and fire up.