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Gruppe-S just started a Black Friday special, linky.
Thanks for sharing @Code Monkey. I ended up paying $545 for UEL headers, overpipe, heatshield and shipping with similar performance to the Tomei. The only downside is that I won't receive the headers until mid December.
Not really knowing either platform, but what difference in nannies is there between the two? I hate having an electronic supervisor looking over my shoulder and wouldn’t track a car that couldn’t turn them off.
My NC Miata has no nannies whatsoever, although certain models have them but they can be disabled with a press of a button. The FRS/BRZ requires that you do a sequence of things on startup to disable the nannies. This is known as the pedal dance.
There's so much aftermarket for these cars that it's so tempting....
The BRZ uses the same tires as an NC (17" and anywhere from 225-255 widths on anything from 7"-9" wide wheels), brakes are similar with the BRZ being slightly more expensive.
I get 40-60 20min sessions out of a set of 200tw (Falken Azenis 615k+ or RS4's) and about the same for a set of front brake pads (that's with about half the track time at ECR though, so if you stick to MSR they'd probably last longer).
You can fit a full set of tires and tools in the back with the seats folded, so you don't have to deal with a trailer (if you don't want to), and the BRZ is faster than a similarly prepped NC (The BRZ is about half way between the S2k and NC for speed and behavior). You can either be the fastest of the slow cars or the slowest of the fast cars. You'll need an oil cooler if you're going to start tracking the BRZ, some negative camber up front helps with tire wear (either camber bolts or plates are enough, -3 degrees is usually the point of diminishing returns, and you don't need to upgrade the brakes but I found the increased lifespan and decreased cost for pads with the AP Racing Sprint Kit was well worth the cost of entry (I'm thinking about adding ducts for the same reason, they're not necessary but might reduce wear enough to cover their cost).
Not having to tow would be convenient for H2R and COTA but it would be risky for MSRH or MSRC as they are 4 hours away from me. How reliable is the engine and can I get by without an oil cooler until the summer or will it overheat in 75-degree weather? Is exhaust and tune the way to go to get rid of the torque dip and what are the preferred camber plates?
Driving a 6,000 pound truck everyday was getting boring, so I picked up a 2014, six speed manual FRS and it's so much fun to drive. The only problem now is trying to hold back the urge of turning it into a second track car. How are the consumables of the FRS/BRZ vs an NC Miata?
Maybe all the sub 7 minute manufacturer sponsored lap times are making this look slow but I just came back from driving the ring and this track is a handful. I think that very few people could do a 7:37 lap time in a naturally aspirated 2 liter MIATA, BTG or not. I may be biased because I own a Miata and I'm slow :D.
Came across this video of an NC 2.0 Miata doing a 7:37 at the ring 😮.
Below is more info on the car setup.
Quickest lap of this trip. A lot thanks to a almo
There isn´t "soooo" much done since 2017, the significant things;
- More track time for both the car & myself
- 245/40 17 track tyres, road legal, on 17x9.
- Approx 10kg lighter
- New exhaust with catalytic converter (w/o cat before) & CAI. Propbably similar power as before, didn´t measure old setup.
- Had to fit a dB-insert due to having 134db (Titanium) and I´ve dyno-measured losses to 1,9hp with the insert fitted :-(.
- Rev limit increased to 8000rpm. 8000rpm? On a stock engine? Yes, that is to avoid shifting a few seconds before braking. The car is actually loosing a significant amount of power at those revs compared to peak power at approx 6900-7000rpm. However, it is still quicker than shifting to the next gear, driving for a second or two, braking, just to find yourself changing back to the same gear again + the extra hustle and balance/momentum/harmony disturbance.
The car, a Mazda MX-5 NC 2,0 Sport Roadster Coupé 2007.
Complete Modifications list from stock:
- ECU Remap
- Full Race-exhaust with race-cat and CAI
- Larger coolant radiator with aluminum reservoir
- 245/40 17 track tyres, road legal, on 17x9
- Coilovers with 13/8 Springs
- Aftermarket ARB front, no ARB rear
- 6-Pot at front, OEM at the back, 2 piece discs (oem size), race fluid & pads, cooling
- Carbon fibre drivers seat, no passenger seat
- Aftermarket steering wheel
- Approx 1090kg incl ½tank of fuel and 80kg driver (Yes, driver lost some :-)).
- 5 Speed Gearbox with close ratios gear kit (Originally a 6-speed)
- 4,1 FD without LSD (yes, open diff)
- Light flywheel, OEM clutch
- AC and PS delete
- Cro-moly rollbar, welded
- CF Roof (not retractable anymore)
- Lightened & reinforced front subframe
- Seam-welded rear subframe
- Seamwelded door-openings
- Additional bracing underneath
- Small boot spoiler
- Small front lip