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HispanicPanic

HispanicPanic

Member Since 26 Mar 2015
Offline Last Active Jan 17 2019 11:58 AM

#111850 Talk to me about sway bars

Posted by HispanicPanic on 17 January 2019 - 11:54 AM

If someone makes a hollow sway bar that is an 'upgrade' over OEM, i'd highly reccomend it.  Even with the increased roll stifness of coilovers, wheel deflection will be greatly reduced, which means the amount a swaybar contributes to roll stiffness is decreased.  Hotchkiss makes good products on all platforms i've had the pleasure of driving them on.  At least on my application, they are very large, but hollow. Lighter than OEM swaybars and on the lowest setting provide a solid increment of greater stiffness. At the highest setting, they rival the stiffest swaybars made for my application. I'll be honest, the difference between having my front sway connected and disconnected (on lowest setting) doesn't increase front grip at all.  But it is more responsive with it connected. I also run very stiff springs and wheel deflection is small.  Having an OEM bar wouldn't benefit me at all as it wouldn't increase grip, it would have slower response, and it would be heavier. My hotchkiss is 32mm hollow and the OEM bars were 24mm solid. 

 

Lots of good application specific advise here, just thought i'd highlight the reduced wheel deflection and swaybar contribution by having stiffer springs :) 




#111738 Street tire class NASA

Posted by HispanicPanic on 12 January 2019 - 09:48 AM

Bunch of old dudes shaking a stick in this thread. I'm surprised Terry even tried to be nice. 




#110427 Holley Hydramat

Posted by HispanicPanic on 16 November 2018 - 09:30 PM

These are the only pictures i can find on my computer right now... i've got more stashed on another device somewhere.

 

 

Pic below shows the adapter on the walbro 255 pump to convert the inlet to a barb.

 

 

5bef8adb5e55f_20150926_132552_55c1943f65

 

 

 

The little magnet fastners are great.

 

 

5bef8b2451000_20150926_125836_55c1943f65




#110426 Holley Hydramat

Posted by HispanicPanic on 16 November 2018 - 09:17 PM

Someone forwarded this thread to me and asked i respond.

 

I have a hydramat in my Evo. Tuned to full-tilt with bolt ons and a stock turbo on 93.  At the end of a normal session, i'd fuel starve on most tracks. I'd usually no-throttle through the offending turns last 2 laps of the session.

 

Had to get creative with some plumbing and modify the fuel return system so that it dumps fuel ONTO the hydramat instead of inside my normal fuel pump hangar. I've got pics somewhere of my install, i'll have to find them.  but i cut a large hole in my fuel pump hangar to route hoses from the hydramat to my walbro 255. I'm using a Radium Siphon kit and bypassing the OEM one as its built into the fuel pump hangar. The OEM siphon system uses a venturi on the fuel return to literally pull fuel from the right side of the tank. The siphon kit comes with a handfull of orifice sizes that you'll need to experiment with to make sure that your Fuel pressure is as normal as possible (unless you've got an adjustible FPR). For you turbo folk, this means a tune check as you'll probably be off a few PSI which will affect your trims slightly. Theoretically, a smaller orifice will increase the velocity of the flow, which will pull more fuel from the right side of the tank, but from dicking around it doesn't seem to make an appreciable difference (i still starve on the same turns at the same fuel level). So i recommend using the orifice that will require the least amount of fucking-about with your fuel trims.

 

For those pushing 600+ hp, be wary.  Reports in the evo community show that there are fueling issues brought about by the 1/2 inch fitting on the mats. It is suspected that the 1/2 fitting is limiting fuel flow which can't support large power on these boosted 2 liters. Not sure if they make a 5/8 fitting mat yet in a large enough size.  Also, i had to use a 90 degree elbow coming out the mat to clear the pump hangar, which converts the NPT fitting on the map to the barb required for the rest of the fuel system. I also had to use a Radium fuel pump adapter kit to convert the Walbro fuel inlet into a Barb so i can connect to the hydramat, as the mat is now your fuel filter.

 

Overall, the mat does exactly what it's supposed to. I'm having a weird fuel anomaly but i think its unrelated to the mat (weird lean spot at 4k RPM that i'm tuning around). I still Fuel starve if my fuel gets around 5/8 tank, but it buys me enough time to get through a session now. I'd usually use 4+ gallons per session as long as there's no traffic, which puts me at 3/4 tank at the end.

 

Next step is to add a 2nd mat on the right side of the tank with a low pressure in-tank pump.  This would solve the problem 100% as long as the flow of the 2nd pump can outflow the main fuel pump. Need to figure out the best way to wire said pump. Then i can run the tank down to 1/4 without starving (i hope). 

 

 

Other notes: turns out my tank (its metal) is magnetic enough for the magnets that come with the mat. They're really strong and will survive any kind of forced slosh without movement. I also purchased the magnets for use with a plastic tank just in case. Those things are so damn strong that if they touch, you're NOT getting them apart. Seriously, i haven't been able to get them apart. So, they're definitely strong enough if you have a plastic tank and you're worried about it. 

 

Parts used:

 

https://www.holley.c...ts/parts/16-106

 

https://www.holley.c...ts/parts/16-204

 

https://www.highflow...-dimension.html

 

http://www.radiumaut...p-Kit-P760.aspx

 

https://frsport.com/...ZhoCROcQAvD_BwE

 

A handfull of hose clamps to secure hoses on barbs

And a handfull of zipties to secure all the hoses where they need to be :) 




#107805 JORBS!! anyone want a JROB!

Posted by HispanicPanic on 07 August 2018 - 09:48 PM

10 years of docking experience, eh?? 




#107224 Track pads for C7Z with carbon/ceramic rotors

Posted by HispanicPanic on 16 July 2018 - 10:37 AM

5b4cc9ca33fcf_WAT.jpg




#107207 Big Turbo 4G63 Swapped "Death Fiero"

Posted by HispanicPanic on 15 July 2018 - 10:21 AM

I'm intrigued on this build!

 

 

 




#106935 New AMB Non Subscription Transponders

Posted by HispanicPanic on 02 July 2018 - 12:01 PM

I think its so messed up that these require subscriptions now....




#106874 Anyone traveling from Austin to Dallas in next few weeks?

Posted by HispanicPanic on 29 June 2018 - 11:14 AM

65 hugs. Or flowers. Whatever your craigslist preference ;)




#106730 What's the point of the tab on the water neck?

Posted by HispanicPanic on 25 June 2018 - 10:50 AM

Highly important stress riser relief tab due to engine harmonic vibration and longitudinal oscillation.

 

The tab also prevents you from removing the neck to replace said o-ring without taking the entire timing assembly apart.

 

 

5b311d5772324_download.jpg




#105870 How much crack is too much?

Posted by HispanicPanic on 01 June 2018 - 04:20 PM

Those look like Evo X OE 2 piece rotors, which are crazy expensive from Mitsu. Racing Brake makes a replacement that will fit the OE hats for something like $700 and are slotted. 

 

Anywho... my Evo rotors look almost the exact same as yours, and I havent had any issues in the past 4 years doing about 2-3 events a year.

 

I'd say keep a close eye on them and replace once they are at the minimum thickness, or crack for reals.

 

 

You're exactly right.  OEM 2 pc rotors.  I'm surprised how great they've held up so far.  I've got over a dozen weekends on these, most of which were on Raybestos ST43's.  The pads have almost  10 weekends on them and i am barely getting to the bottom of the 'notch' in the middle of the pad material. 

 

 

I purchased a set of Girodisc 2pc rotors for the front so i'll have those on deck as soon as the heat cracking gets worse or rotor reaches minimum thickness. 

 

Rear rotors are clean and have .8mm left of rotor material till minimum thickness.  I think once those go down, i'm going to get a BBK for the rear.  Need moar rear bias ;) 




#105743 Trans balked at 4-5 upshift on track, "Shakey clutch" in paddock ???

Posted by HispanicPanic on 26 May 2018 - 02:42 PM

https://www.amazon.c...t/dp/B0018PSASU

 

The above grease is something i recommend and it works in all high temp applications.  It has the highest temp rating i could find. Probably overkill for the  TOB application, but this stuff is the best with brakes, and even maintains lubricity after multiple track days! Its the only grease i could find that could keep my raybestos st43's quiet. Without it, they would squeal like a pig at a slaughterhouse. 

 

You'll find my review on amazon if you scroll down :) 




#105732 Apex Pro

Posted by HispanicPanic on 24 May 2018 - 10:37 PM

So their website is terrible, but i remember hearing about this from one of Ross Bently's podcasts.  If i remember correctly, the apex pro is essentially a predictive lap timer BUT with a lot more algorithms and machine learning in play that help refine what a theoretical "optimal lap" would be.  Optimals are usually the fastest segment/corner time out of ALL laps taken.  If i understand correctly, Apex pro uses this data from GPS AND additional metrics taken from accelerators and a gyroscope to determine what the VEHICLE can do, which is different than the classic optimal which is how fast a DRIVER can go. 

 

Of course, that's what i understood from that podcast a few months ago.  Their website is crap and doesn't explain a darn thing so i could be wrong. 




#105648 Trans balked at 4-5 upshift on track, "Shakey clutch" in paddock ???

Posted by HispanicPanic on 21 May 2018 - 12:26 PM

I was thinking the same thing... Throw out bearing. 

 

The synchros on other cars i've owned, as they're having difficulty doing they're job tend to make noise.  It's weird, like i feel resistance going into a gear, and as i put pressure on the shifter to push it in gear, i can hear very light wirring begin as the synchro tries to match the engine speed.  Do you hear any whirring as you try to smash it in 4th or 5th? 




#105399 Wheel lift

Posted by HispanicPanic on 11 May 2018 - 12:44 PM

Yeah i vote you loosen front sway. IF that's not enough, you can get tender springs for the front coilovers to add extra droop.