Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
Matt93SE

Opinions on Race Technology Dash2Pro?

Recommended Posts

Please help a data moron!

I need to buy a display+datalogger for the new car since the previous owner removed the MXL dash and I'm running a boosted car on stock gauge cluster (eek!!)

I ran across a decent price on a NIB Dash2Pro.  I'm curious what the opinions are on it vs. an AIM MXL2.   The both have OBD-II and CAN interface, but I can't seem to find any indication if "all CAN works" or if only certain models are natively supported.   based on how OBD-II and CAN standards work, I would *assume* that if it's capable of connecting to CAN bus, it should do it for all cars.

Also looking to thoughts on user-friendly and etc compared to the AIM?   I know the AIM stuff is pretty easy to use, but the price is up there for a full dash setup.

Thanks!

Share this post


Link to post

I always buy AIM, if only because it's what everyone uses and data is easy to share.  Yeah it's painful to buy new but it lasts and is easy to sell later on if needed.  There are ways to save some cash though, especially if you don't need a full dash.  I feel like an MXL2 or MXG (large dash) is mainly useful for endurance racing.  Something like a SOLO DL can data log and alert to temps if needed.  To me a Smartycam is where the money should go and into sensors.  My SE46 runs an MXL2 with oil press, temp, brake press, diff temp, fuel press and most importantly a calculated DTE and fuel levels.  I ran a data hub to tie everything in.  Whole setup was probably $4500 but for 8 hour WRL races it made me feel so much better about the car and finishing. 

All depends on what your goal is.  I have a SOLO2 i use for my weekend car. 

Share this post


Link to post

Thanks..   

I thought about the MXL2 as well (there was one in this car already, but previous owner took it out to reduce the sell price and transfer to another car..).  

The D2P has GoPro 'integration' in it using one of the output relays, and then the software can merge video and data...  not quite as slick as SmartyCam but similar.  The GoPros are also an investment I already have vs. spending another $2000 on front and rear SmartyCam..   So I'm in this for $1000 instead of $4000 so far.  that $3000 difference for the day 1 hardware allows me to buy lots of other add-on sensors and such..

I watched a little video on the software and setup, but I need to get back to work.  the software looks WAY easier to review and manage data than the older Racepak G2X that's in my RX7 now..  

I've placed with the AIM whateverwhatever version for the kids karting Mychron and it's pretty easy to follow.  however, actually interpreting and using the data is what I need to spend some time with, and that's regardless of platform.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post

I have the non-Pro Dash2 on my Ariel Atom SRA. If you're going datalogging, I'd buy once/cry once with an AIM system (even though I continue to believe AIM's software is awful). 

I think the Dash2 is great if you just want a digital dash with basic inputs without datalogging, as it's super simple. But I would hate to invest a lot of money in sensors and then be on an island with Dash2 data and everybody else with AIM data. 

Share this post


Link to post

Well shoulda woulda coulda put something in the car before the last race.  now it's going to have to wait.   blew the engine apart Sunday at the race.  not sure if it was just time, or if it was my driving.  no gauges and no data to look back and see if there was a warning. 😕

 

Share this post


Link to post
1 hour ago, Matt93SE said:

Well shoulda woulda coulda put something in the car before the last race.  now it's going to have to wait.   blew the engine apart Sunday at the race.  not sure if it was just time, or if it was my driving.  no gauges and no data to look back and see if there was a warning. 😕

 

200w.gif.80d7f1681fa9996c210a410d69d06afd.gif

 

1157817094_tenor(3).gif.f1b4a941d5e3223db71b38f7d277bd8e.gif

 

29c0c1669fd5b985fc9219083a6e0841.gif.c48aae5f8d7ed0de0926866c4f3881dd.gif

Share this post


Link to post

Maybe I should blame Toyota for not performing the valve spring recall.   seems to be what the forum bois do when they blow theirs apart.

Share this post


Link to post
17 minutes ago, Matt93SE said:

Maybe I should blame Toyota for not performing the valve spring recall.   seems to be what the forum bois do when they blow theirs apart.

And all of my desire to supercharge mine jsut evaporated. Sorry to hear that happened Matt! 

Share this post


Link to post
31 minutes ago, joesurf79 said:

And all of my desire to supercharge mine jsut evaporated. Sorry to hear that happened Matt! 

I do not blame the S/C at all.  I was pushing the piss out of it, and was holding 4th gear out on front straight so I didn't shift to 5th for 100 ft and back down to 3rd.  I'm guessing boosted FA20 doesn't like the rev limiter.

My guess is a rod came apart and then shrapnel ensued.  It happened right when I lifted at braking zone at end of pit straight.   The hole in the block seems to be the same spot that blows up on many of the "street" engine failures I see as well. (between A/C compressor and alternator on top of block)  so I wouldn't be surprised one way or the other.  but again I wouldn't blame the S/C at all.

...At least it blew the top of the engine apart and the oil pan was intact.  It didn't leave a trail of oil on track that way and put anyone else in danger...

Share this post


Link to post
21 hours ago, Matt93SE said:

I do not blame the S/C at all.  I was pushing the piss out of it, and was holding 4th gear out on front straight so I didn't shift to 5th for 100 ft and back down to 3rd.  I'm guessing boosted FA20 doesn't like the rev limiter.

My guess is a rod came apart and then shrapnel ensued.  It happened right when I lifted at braking zone at end of pit straight.   The hole in the block seems to be the same spot that blows up on many of the "street" engine failures I see as well. (between A/C compressor and alternator on top of block)  so I wouldn't be surprised one way or the other.  but again I wouldn't blame the S/C at all.

...At least it blew the top of the engine apart and the oil pan was intact.  It didn't leave a trail of oil on track that way and put anyone else in danger...

Wouldn't the increased load that the rods were subjected to be a possible reason for the rod failure? Imagine that the loads they see under full boost are well outside their design envelope for their intended NA purpose? I was under the impression that the rods were a known weak point under boost and that factory short blocks were all on a clock once boosted because of it.

 

Not trying to start a flame war, legitimately asking - the desire for a supercharger is still staring at me, creepily, from the corner, across the room stalker style lol... 

Share this post


Link to post

More power = more cylinder pressure = more load on the rods= shorter lifespan.  no matter what, yes that's one of the issues..  however, these engines *at this power level* have shown to be reasonably reliable.  the car as a whole only has 5600 miles on it, so this engine was pretty new.   I certainly suspect a rod failure based on the hole in the block by #1 crank boss, which is a known weak point on these engines.   why the rod failed remains to be seen.  could be oiling, could be over rev, could be one of many things.  

however, lots of people have boosted these engines and driven them tens of thousands of miles on track without blowing them up.  I did something wrong to it, but I don't know what that was yet.

Share this post


Link to post
5 minutes ago, Matt93SE said:

More power = more cylinder pressure = more load on the rods= shorter lifespan.  no matter what, yes that's one of the issues..  however, these engines *at this power level* have shown to be reasonably reliable.  the car as a whole only has 5600 miles on it, so this engine was pretty new.   I certainly suspect a rod failure based on the hole in the block by #1 crank boss, which is a known weak point on these engines.   why the rod failed remains to be seen.  could be oiling, could be over rev, could be one of many things.  

however, lots of people have boosted these engines and driven them tens of thousands of miles on track without blowing them up.  I did something wrong to it, but I don't know what that was yet.

if only there was....data..

Share this post


Link to post

not sure a spontaneous mechanical failure would show up on data..

if I'd run it hot or oil pressure was dropping, etc..   sure, I could see that in the data.   but how would a rod failure show up?

Share this post


Link to post
3 minutes ago, Matt93SE said:

not sure a spontaneous mechanical failure would show up on data..

if I'd run it hot or oil pressure was dropping, etc..   sure, I could see that in the data.   but how would a rod failure show up?

it'd show you zinging it four turns earlier 😂

Share this post


Link to post
37 minutes ago, Hollywood said:

it'd show you zinging it four turns earlier 😂

🙈🙉🙊

It is not out of the realm of possibility.  I didn't miss a shift, but was certainly pushing it..  an overrev on a downshift, or simply being that close to the redline for much of the track might (was?) too much for the engine.

the wound was certainly inflicted by something I did.  would be nice to figure it out so I can learn to not do it again.

Share this post


Link to post

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...