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Anybody got a line on SRF? I am finally ready to upgrade and when I went looking it seems to be sold out all over the place.

And my google-fu shows that happened about 4-5 years ago? I'm assuming its a quirk of their supply chain, not an abandonment? 

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I got some a month ago from Pegasus I think? It's still around. Promise.

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yup i just order a couple bottles at a time from amazon. 

They changed the bottle design a while back and some people thought it was different.   Especially corvette forum bros. 

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Is the extra expense really worth the ~40 degree higher boiling point over $19 ATE? Don't even worry about wet boiling point, if you aren't frequently bleeding your track car brakes you're doing it wrong. 

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5 minutes ago, tyhackman15 said:

Is the extra expense really worth the ~40 degree higher boiling point over $19 ATE? Don't even worry about wet boiling point, if you aren't frequently bleeding your track car brakes you're doing it wrong. 

Yes. I can go a year without touching the brake fluid in my cars, maybe more. That's worth it to me. Also, it actually works in the NSX, which gets insanely hot and never felt good on RBF600. I guess I'm doing it wrong, but my cars all stop great.

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1 hour ago, robertcope said:

Yes. I can go a year without touching the brake fluid in my cars, maybe more. That's worth it to me. Also, it actually works in the NSX, which gets insanely hot and never felt good on RBF600. I guess I'm doing it wrong, but my cars all stop great.

Fair, I guess if you can keep it in service for that long the price is easier to justify.  

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Castrol SRF...don't even bother with other fluids....I can almost boil Motul 660 on command...the money is well spent - if the price of quality brake fluid is a deal breaker....well, this "sport" may not be for you....

Sort of like the one student that I had...he was checking out a pair of racing gloves ($150 or so)....well, I need to think on it, um, gotta check with my wife....I saw him back out a few times...I believe he has since joined the track as a member...

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5 minutes ago, Captain Buddha said:

Castrol SRF...don't even bother with other fluids....I can almost boil Motul 660 on command...the money is well spent - if the price of quality brake fluid is a deal breaker....well, this "sport" may not be for you....

Sort of like the one student that I had...he was checking out a pair of racing gloves ($150 or so)....well, I need to think on it, um, gotta check with my wife....I saw him back out a few times...I believe he has since joined the track as a member...

I look for anyway I can to save a few bucks.   Some things (like SRF) i don't skimp on.   An 80 dollar pair of fire retardant gloves vs 250 dollar gloves that carry the same SFI rating..... guess which one i'm gonna choose.    

Granted, things like external stitching and what not may lend to higher comfort which is worth "something" especially if endurance racing but for your average DE driver and hell "As a race driver" (I can say that now) it doesn't make a whole lot of difference.  

 

speaking of which I got a hole in my sparco gloves so now I need a new pair... ironically had I spent more money from the get go on a better quality pair maybe they wouldn't have a hole in them?  

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55 minutes ago, lobster said:

I look for anyway I can to save a few bucks.   Some things (like SRF) i don't skimp on.   An 80 dollar pair of fire retardant gloves vs 250 dollar gloves that carry the same SFI rating..... guess which one i'm gonna choose.    

Granted, things like external stitching and what not may lend to higher comfort which is worth "something" especially if endurance racing but for your average DE driver and hell "As a race driver" (I can say that now) it doesn't make a whole lot of difference.  

 

speaking of which I got a hole in my sparco gloves so now I need a new pair... ironically had I spent more money from the get go on a better quality pair maybe they wouldn't have a hole in them?  

Agree with that sentiment.  I purchase quality safety equipment, but I can get a good quality glove for sub $100...  

regarding longevity, I think it's a crap shoot honestly.   I bought one pair of Alpinestars Tech-1somethingsomething glove and put a hole in the thumb webbing after about 6 races. I used some Nomex thread to sew it up and ran them for a couple more seasons before another hole developed.  I then picked up a newer version of same glove on year-end sale at SafeRacer and have done multiple seasons and they still look new.   

I can't remember the brand, but I bought a set of $250 shoes (on sale) and the soles fell off within a season, but the $89 shoes from same manufacturer have lasted years with no unexpected wear.

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I just added a bottle to my brake pad order from KNS Brakes for $71.  I used to get it from Amazon for $60 but noticed the price went up to $90.

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Whatever you buy - just make sure it is good quality stuff....it's not about the price, it's about what you are buying....ie - my shoes, they are nothing fancy, $150 vs other high end shoes that I've tried - to me, though, they are the most comfortable and safest shoe out there...and yep, a dirt track shoe...LOL...it suits my driving style...I get one season out of them, the right side rear usually gets burned off.... As far as gloves....my favorites are the Alpinestars ZX1 Tech (or whatever they are call)....they are AMAZINGLY comfortable...gret grip, etc....I ordered a set of Stand 21 Gloves after I tried them on (while getting fitting for the suit), they seem really nice.

https://www.jegs.com/p/Simpson/Simpson-Stealth-Sprint-Driving-Shoes/2342722/10002/-1

image.png.d64b8b879d70cbb45c996b97692bcc08.png

 

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1 hour ago, lobster said:

"As a race driver" (I can say that now)

Provisional race car driver...LOL...I have a spare pair of gloves that I ordered (so no trying on)....they are a little too loose on my hands...I don't wear them, that was money I peed away....

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1 hour ago, lobster said:

speaking of which I got a hole in my sparco gloves so now I need a new pair... ironically had I spent more money from the get go on a better quality pair maybe they wouldn't have a hole in them?  

Wouldn't a REAL cheapskate just sew the hole up with some Nomex thread ;) ?

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=2131

EDIT* Matty beat me to the Nomex thread comment!

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4 hours ago, tyhackman15 said:

Is the extra expense really worth the ~40 degree higher boiling point over $19 ATE? Don't even worry about wet boiling point, if you aren't frequently bleeding your track car brakes you're doing it wrong. 

It really isn’t more expensive than other fluids if you think about it. My car requires about 1.0 L per flush.

If I use Motul RBF600, I’ll need two 0.5 L bottles at $16 ea, and I will need to flush every six months. Four bottles for 12 months of use = $64.

SRF, I can flush every 12 months. I will need one 1.0 L bottle for the year. One bottle = $60-70. 

Cost is about the same. Half the labor with SRF. 

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Not sure how brake fluid question got off into discussion of shoes and gloves. LOL

Thanks for the help. For some reason amazon searches had put me off in the ditch or had really long arrival estimates.  I must have checked 8 or 10"normal" race shops online and were all showing out. My normal brake pad supplier showed "in stock" until I had ordered then 6 wk delay plus.

$89/bottle is a big jump, but I ordered 2. I have limited ability to cycle the ABS unit so it will be a 2 step flush. Once normal, then heavy braking on slick surface to cycle pump/fluid. Reflush. Hope to go forth and prosper. With new ECR open I'm expecting to be feeding my girl a lot of brakes. Looks like it will flow a lot better than the point and shoot aspect of 1.0 version, but its going to be REALLY fast.

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Alright so I'm genuinely not trying to be a smart ass here and have an actual want of further education:

What makes SRF so different from the Motul race fluids besides 40 deg raise in ceiling? I've never known brake fluids to be anything but a consumable when you bleed every weekend etc. in race conditions so I'm mega curious.

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http://torquebrakefluid.com/compare_torque_rt700_to_other_brake_fluids.html     while its from a competing fluid its a pretty good break down. 

 

I'm not sure what its like on smaller cars but if I look at my brake pedal the wrong way my brakes get hot.   I've had crap for luck with anything other than SRF for mushy pedal after just a handful of laps. 

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4 minutes ago, lobster said:

http://torquebrakefluid.com/compare_torque_rt700_to_other_brake_fluids.html     while its from a competing fluid its a pretty good break down. 

 

I'm not sure what its like on smaller cars but if I look at my brake pedal the wrong way my brakes get hot.   I've had crap for luck with anything other than SRF for mushy pedal after just a handful of laps. 

 

Muchas gracias.

 

Yeah I think my experiences are all skewed from only competing in a miata, which I mean I could probably throw olive oil in there to make it through a sprint race. But definitely interested for bigger gals like CTR in the future...

 

 

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19 minutes ago, Hollywood said:

Yeah I think my experiences are all skewed from only competing in a miata, which I mean I could probably throw olive oil in there to make it through a sprint race. But definitely interested for bigger gals like CTR in the future...

LOL! Yeah. RBF worked fine in the Miata, probably overkill. The NSX brakes get a lot lot lot hotter... RBF just didn't work. I was surprised that SRF made such a huge difference, but now I'm sold. People cry about the price, but let's be real, in the scheme of things that we pay for in this hobby, it's ridiculous to even think about.

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On 8/23/2019 at 11:28 AM, Captain Buddha said:

Whatever you buy - just make sure it is good quality stuff....it's not about the price, it's about what you are buying....ie - my shoes, they are nothing fancy, $150 vs other high end shoes that I've tried - to me, though, they are the most comfortable and safest shoe out there...and yep, a dirt track shoe...LOL...it suits my driving style...I get one season out of them, the right side rear usually gets burned off.... As far as gloves....my favorites are the Alpinestars ZX1 Tech (or whatever they are call)....they are AMAZINGLY comfortable...gret grip, etc....I ordered a set of Stand 21 Gloves after I tried them on (while getting fitting for the suit), they seem really nice.

https://www.jegs.com/p/Simpson/Simpson-Stealth-Sprint-Driving-Shoes/2342722/10002/-1

image.png.d64b8b879d70cbb45c996b97692bcc08.png

 

Interesting. If Brad Gross says it's comfortable, I'm just going to have to try that shoe!

Simpson's website directly has them for same price...but it only has one choice vs. all those different ones from Jegs. Plus I imagine they make more money directly from their site. And no shipping charges.

https://simpsonraceproducts.com/sfi-driving-shoes/stealth-sprint-shoe-sfi.5/

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They are, to me, insanely comfortable! I tried on a pair of Alpinestars at PRI....it was like putting my shoe in a vise...the Apline dud was like “well, they are performance...” HA!! I told him “Heck no, these are pain machines...” I’ve got a very wide foot. Wear what’s comfortable! BTW - I bought my first pair of these at Smiley’s...always good to try them (or anything) on before you buy, if you can.

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On 8/23/2019 at 5:50 PM, Hollywood said:

Alright so I'm genuinely not trying to be a smart ass here and have an actual want of further education:

What makes SRF so different from the Motul race fluids besides 40 deg raise in ceiling? I've never known brake fluids to be anything but a consumable when you bleed every weekend etc. in race conditions so I'm mega curious.

I'd have to look at the specs for both to say for sure but I if I recall right, the big difference (the "why" if you will) is that the *wet* point is much higher in SRFnover 660....think about it this way, once you crack the cap (both on your brake fluid bottle and your master cylinder) you have now introduced moisture (the wet) into the fluid/system...just how I look at it...but I don't know anything...except that SRF works! A pretty good torture test for me was the Daytona Roval...180 mph down to 45 or 55, whatever my turn-in was for the fish-hook turn to the left for the infield. WHEW!!

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51 minutes ago, Captain Buddha said:

I'd have to look at the specs for both to say for sure but I if I recall right, the big difference (the "why" if you will) is that the *wet* point is much higher in SRF over 660 ....

Castrol SRF listed wet BP = 518 deg F

RBF 660 listed wet BP = 400 deg F.

And Brad's right - as soon as you open it in an 85% humidity Houston garage, it's considered wet haha! That 118 degree delta in wet boiling point is why so many people get a year out of it between flushes.

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