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joesurf79

Joe's Answer: The "NBeater"

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I give you the NBeater: Cosmetically challenged, seemingly mostly-maybe-almost mechanically solid (previous owner maintained well enough to track). It's being put out to pasture on the streets of Sugar Land, unless it becomes the wife's dedicated track car over time. Or it becomes a WRL car. Or whatever - It is the answer to cheapskate level fun that will shrug off downtown parking garage non-sense with all the endless possibility the Miata provides. Or it may blow up tomorrow, who knows. I should probably check the oil, maybe before I bought it. And get the vinyl livery residue off the doors and hood. All in due time.

 

Plans:

Full Fluids swap. Coolant looks good, brake fluid is new, oil pressure gauge shows plenty - so something is in the crank case.

Shifter rebuild kit STAT. This thing is like stirring pancake batter.

Driver's rear taillight housing. This one is cracked pretty good, and will for sure let water in, probably today.

A top that wasn't around when Fight Club was in theaters.

Some solution to the shredded driver seat cover which is totally shot. The foam hasn't degraded yet, it may be salvageable with quick action!

Raise the thing an inch. It's on SM coil collars and bilsteins, but at current height, I think it is indeed just riding the bumpstops around town.

Valve cover gasket.

Stash a transmission (just in case)

15 or (gasp) 16" wheels for giggles.

Hoon to the Moon on Diaper Runs :)

 

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Nice color! Welcome to the...oh wait why was I saying that?

 

Congrats on the new toy.  Someday when I grow up I might buy one of these things.

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Welcome to the dark side pal...

 

 

http://www.planet-miata.com/index.php?section=31630995

 

http://partsgroup.com/

 

You can get a new Mazda 5-speed from Mazdaspeed for 1200 if it's going to stay in the family long enough, worth doing it right if you're going to drop and swap.

 

Appreciate the links Hollywood - I already have a short list of parts to find on the cheap. Which is kinda the theme of where I want to go for the time being with this thing. "Fun per dollar" is what I want to maximize.

 

But I hear you on the one and done philosophy with the gearbox. Transmission swap work is not exactly fun, but part of me on principal has a hard time (right now at least) considering a transmission that would cost 50% of my current cash outlay on the car haha! But it's good to know the new ones exist, and I will likely think back on this info after I am hopelessly smitten with the car, under the thing, removing the next bargain gear box, sweating, swearing, and thinking about how I could be drinking a beer while eating nachos instead  :tongue:

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Also forgot to put on the "to-do" list. Based on the unknown extent of the NBeaters' track history, I need to replace the hubs that are likely about to fracture catastrophically and kill me.

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If you stay with 15" wheels, you'll have a larger selection of good tires for less money. 15 x 8 is the most versatile, takes 205/50/15 & 225/45/15 and doesn't hit the stock springs.

 

I would add to you list:

1. Brake pads, Hawk HP+ at minimum, DTC 60/30 would be better.

2. Roll Bar - Hard Dog Hard Core - http://www.bethania-garage.com/hardcore.htm

3. Big front sway bar - Racing Beat

4. Shocks & Springs

 

Welcome to the addiction!

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If you stay with 15" wheels, you'll have a larger selection of good tires for less money. 15 x 8 is the most versatile, takes 205/50/15 & 225/45/15 and doesn't hit the stock springs.

 

I would add to you list:

1. Brake pads, Hawk HP+ at minimum, DTC 60/30 would be better.

2. Roll Bar - Hard Dog Hard Core - http://www.bethania-garage.com/hardcore.htm

3. Big front sway bar - Racing Beat

4. Shocks & Springs

 

Welcome to the addiction!

Yeah buddy! Thanks for the wheel tips! Saves me search time!

 

Car has SM bilsteins with threaded collars and unknown rate springs. Are the spring rates dictated in SM rules?

 

Hawk pads, nooooo! I'm sure PFC has some for miatas. Compound 11 anyone ?

 

It also came with a hard dog single diagonal bar. Which I need to pad BADLY if I intend to street drive it, which still wouldn't be "safe". I'm 5'11.5" and alllll torso lol

post-1644-0-72701800-1546475105_thumb.jpg

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If it's a SM suspension then it's 700/350. Red springs, Eibach? Should show the rate and length in the code on the spring.

 

I haven't used the PFC, so have no clue on compound. 

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Yep, Red Eibachs. Havent removed wheels to confirm rates, but was told it was SM, and all indicators point to it being a bumpstop riding champ.

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Massive downpour + ancient Miata top with unseen holes = water under the seats. Got it bailed out, and got it dry. Most of a tube of Loctite Clear Silicone Sealant was used, plugging every single spot I could see daylight through what used to be watertight (there were several holes lol). <- This should have been step one!  

 

Pulled the wheels over the weekend, raised the spring perches on the collars 25 MM at all 4 corners. The red Eibach springs were marked 700# F and 325# rear. YUGE red swaybar and a tiny oil leak live under  the front of the thing.

 

Got the residue off the hood / doors, Waxed the thing. Drove with the wife from Sugar Land to her sisters house in Cypress yesterday, the suspension feels better to me for street use at the higher level.

 

Checked the oil, while getting gas on the way back home. One side of the dipstick showed a level just above the low mark, and the other side showed 3/4ths the way between lo and full. Added a half quart, ended up with readings on the stick that were even MORE confusing, called it good, drove it home.

 

Goals: 

1) Track down the tiny oil leak when I change it this week

2) Get a baseline idea of what this silly dipstick should look like with a fresh 4 qts in the pan...

3) Find out where my freaking Moss Miata order for the top and shifter rebuild kit is.

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Snag a hard top for this bad boy!

 

Yep. I fixed my leaking soft top by ripping the whole damn thing out and slapping a hard top on.

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Snag a hard top for this bad boy!

What is a good price for a used hardtop in decent condition? I haven't even looked - is there a manufacturer making new ones?

 

Does it require a specific seal system, or will a generic weather striping work?

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What is a good price for a used hardtop in decent condition? I haven't even looked - is there a manufacturer making new ones?

 

Does it require a specific seal system, or will a generic weather striping work?

 

OEM hardtop comes with all seals ready to go unless it's in janky condition. Good hardtop is ~$900-1200. Shitty one that needs repaint, seals, etc maybe $500? Fiberglass + lexan window, seals, etc will come out to OEM hardtop price but be much lighter. Not sure if you'd ever get it truly seals, but pretty sure the treasurecost seal kit is just a OEM seals.

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Check the oil in the AM after the car has sat all night, easy to read then. 

 

If you don't go bucket seats find some NB2 seats.  Much higher seatbacks and more comfortable. NA/NB1/2 seats are all interchangeable. 

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Make sure the drain holes are clear. They get clogged with leaves and stuff.

Raise the top and they're where the top mechanism sits when down, just behind the doors.

Its about at 5/8" hole in the bottom of the plastic tray. 

A 4' piece of coax-cable works really well to push everything down.

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Thanks for the info guys! Drain holes will get cleared, and NB2 seats looked for :)

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Thanks for the info guys! Drain holes will get cleared, and NB2 seats looked for :)

I have a set of NB seats

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I have a set of NB seats

 

PMd - Very Intersted!

 

Shifter rebuild kit and top showed up yesterday, so My punch list is getting shorter :)

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Joe the kid come yet?  How do you find time?!!?

I dont know how ive been able to do all this - best theory is that my wife is some kind of Terminator replica hybrid superhuman? Ultra understanding and unnaturally even keeled in this state.

 

The baby is full 40 week term on Thursday, but at the check up yesterday, he's not indicating he's ready to make his escape. Might happen any day though...Worst case they'll induce next week.

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