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The LE5pard - Nix's Ecotec Miata Build

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Sorry, should have asked that question better (was actually thinking about the battery comment). How much weight do you need to gain? Are you tens or hundreds of pound off your goal? 

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9 minutes ago, Just_Hayes said:

Sorry, should have asked that question better (was actually thinking about the battery comment). How much weight do you need to gain? Are you tens or hundreds of pound off your goal? 

Hundreds of pounds. I'm going to weigh it this week now that all the big pieces are built, but I'm estimating I'll need every bit of the allowed 250 lbs of ballast to make competition weight for ST5.

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20 minutes ago, turbogrill said:

What about chump/wrl?

 

It's in the cards for this car. I need to get it shaken down and build a few things for reliability. I know other people running the same swap in endurance have a big issues with motor mount bushings wearing out. I'm building my own with bigger, beefier Hasport bushings. I also want to do the AR5 transmission swap, since it would be more reliable for long run racing.

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A few more pictures!

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I'm planning a shakedown and dyno session next weekend, so I'm working down the list to getting it track worthy.

Once any major issues are addressed, it's on to getting it ST5 legal.

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I pulled the car out for a wash. I saw a chance to get the whole Miata family in a picture...

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For those wondering the rest of the Miata ranch is my black daily ND, the white $200 auction find NB, and a K-swap NA.

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I stuck the leopard car on the scales to see how my weight gain affected the car:

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2190 with driver and a half tank of fuel. Hitting ST5 will just be a matter of adding ballast!

I'm pushing to get the car track-worthy by this weekend and take it out for a shakedown at Chin's single day MSRH event.

 

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Belly pan assembled. The steel frame member makes up part of the belly pan itself, and a rear aluminum plate extends to the front axle line. I used 0.90" aluminum for all of this.

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The flywheel was exposed, so I whipped up a cover for it on the band saw. I used black RTV to attach it.

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I have the "paper on windshield with huge list of things to do" (on the workbench in the below picture to so I could clean the windshield) and have been working away at it. Last night I got the last of the critical items done, so it's ready for a test drive on track!!

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I have another round of mechanical and electrical items to tackle after the shakedown, but figured I would want to find gremlins to add to the list before refining too much. After this weekend we'll see about: oil plumbing with lines to the accusump, oil cooler, and remote filter; aux lighting wiring including headlights and motors; a steel plate ballast system; exhaust clearance work... and so on.

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I figured as much..  but you said you needed ballast too, soooooooo..

I saw one of Louie's GT cars using 1/4" alu plate for the flat bottom undertray in the center of the chassis.  can't get the weight any lower than that, and it'll stiffen the car up quite a bit!  I'd just hate to be the one taking off the 50 flat head screws that hold it in place every time you need to work on something!

 

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I took a short test drive and everything seemed to hold together! I did notice the fuel pressure is set static in the ECU at 58 psi, so I upped the regulator to match.

 

I also installed the handheld extinguisher on a quick release bracket, and installed the life support system for this weekend. I couldn't find a DC connector so I just spliced it in with Wago nuts for now.

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Speaking of Wago lever nuts, here's a look inside the center console:

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I put Wago lever nuts on DIN carriers and snapped them in to short pieces of DIN rail. This is all for auxiliary wiring - things like gauges and accessories. This makes it easy to modify and troubleshoot without fussing with screw terminals or splices.

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