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And now for something completely different: Merkur XR4Ti "Shea"


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77 replies to this topic

#61
Matt93SE

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Ooo.. I didn't catch the part these were the rear calipers you were working on.  I had in my head this was a front brake upgrade.    the good news there is the stresses in the rear are much lower as you have already surmised, so I wouldn't worry about it at all..


And just because I'm a shitty driver doesn't make a miata any less slow.

I drive slow as shit. LOL

geez, now I realize I drive slow everywhere. haha!


#62
dunhamr1

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Ooo.. I didn't catch the part these were the rear calipers you were working on.  I had in my head this was a front brake upgrade.    the good news there is the stresses in the rear are much lower as you have already surmised, so I wouldn't worry about it at all..

 

I did the fronts as well, they fit though! It was mostly a rear disk conversion, coupled with an easy front upgrade (spacer, threaded inserts). Rears are actually larger in diameter, but the pad face is smaller and the rotor isn't vented (front is).  :wacko:  Hopefully the brake bias won't be crazy... I don't think the rears will have to work too hard with this setup.


1989 Merkur XR4Ti, yes it's weird.


#63
KevinDB

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Well then, get to grinding good sir!

 

5be363c113223_grinder.jpg



#64
Matt93SE

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I did the fronts as well, they fit though! It was mostly a rear disk conversion, coupled with an easy front upgrade (spacer, threaded inserts). Rears are actually larger in diameter, but the pad face is smaller and the rotor isn't vented (front is).  :wacko:  Hopefully the brake bias won't be crazy... I don't think the rears will have to work too hard with this setup.

that's a pretty common setup nowadays.   rear rotor is larger diameter and thinner, with a smaller caliper.  the larger rotor "looks better" and gives longer moment arm so you get more braking with less hydraulic pressure on the rears.


And just because I'm a shitty driver doesn't make a miata any less slow.

I drive slow as shit. LOL

geez, now I realize I drive slow everywhere. haha!


#65
dunhamr1

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Final product. More than anticipated, but not enough that I feel like I'm going to worry about it. If this was a rally car... That'd be a different story.

Got everything back together, torqued the spindle nuts (250 ft-lb!!), added the new parking brake cable and tightened it up, bled the brakes (pressure bleed), refilled the master cylinder, put the front end on the ground, tightened the top nuts on the struts, and went to start it. Turned over but no fire... Damn.

After a few minutes of poking around, verified electricity to the pump, put the leads back on and fires first crank. Must have jostled the wires or something? Glad it works though. Not wanting to rush things, I put tools down for the night. I'll do a bolt check before I head out the first time.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 20181107_194934.jpg

1989 Merkur XR4Ti, yes it's weird.


#66
joesurf79

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Final product. More than anticipated, but not enough that I feel like I'm going to worry about it. If this was a rally car... That'd be a different story.

Got everything back together, torqued the spindle nuts (250 ft-lb!!), added the new parking brake cable and tightened it up, bled the brakes (pressure bleed), refilled the master cylinder, put the front end on the ground, tightened the top nuts on the struts, and went to start it. Turned over but no fire... Damn.

After a few minutes of poking around, verified electricity to the pump, put the leads back on and fires first crank. Must have jostled the wires or something? Glad it works though. Not wanting to rush things, I put tools down for the night. I'll do a bolt check before I head out the first time.

I'd send it. Not that that means anything, Just saying - I mean, it's the rears  ;)



#67
KevinDB

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Who needs rear brakes anyway?

 

5be4685733943_stoppie.jpg



#68
dunhamr1

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I'd send it. Not that that means anything, Just saying - I mean, it's the rears  ;)

 

Hah! Perhaps it is the rear, but I've found the importance of the rear brakes on other cars when they weren't working correctly and the car was downright scary to drive.. Fixed the rear only and was back to normal. Absolutely going to send it though!

 

Who needs rear brakes anyway?

 

5be4685733943_stoppie.jpg

 

Haha depends on the corner! Also, good find on a targa car. Targa Tasmania is crazy.


1989 Merkur XR4Ti, yes it's weird.


#69
dunhamr1

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Got everything buttoned up and went for a test drive last night. She feels much more planted, and much less body roll with the higher rates in the front, as well as the sway bar in the rear. Bed in the brakes a bit, but will likely need another go round to get them a bit warmer. Brakes feel good as well. Stable, not straining like they sometimes felt like before. I can't wait to see what they're like with the G-Loc pads! (Those arrived this afternoon)
 
Note to self as well, 200tw tires, in 50degF rainy weather... Not grippy. Had a bit of a slow speed slide and mini tank slapper and managed to not hit a curb, no one else around thankfully. Big rear bar likely also affected that dynamic, will have to be on the lookout a bit more now.
 
Ride height is still a bit high, I'll probably take the rubber isolator out of the rear, and turn the front spring seats down a bit more as well.

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1989 Merkur XR4Ti, yes it's weird.


#70
dunhamr1

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Test drive for a reason! I missed one corner when I was locktite-ing and torquing bolts, and I had the right front lower caliper carrier bolt come loose, gouging (and eventually locking up) the wheel.

Somehow I didn't lose the bolt, and there was a shop across the street. I borrowed a wrench and put that bolt back in and tightened the top one as well. Gave the wrench back and was on my way!

Got home and made SURE there was locktite there and checked a couple other bolts. Not fun, thankfully slowish speed and didn't pull significantly one direction or the other.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 20181110_125304.jpg
  • 20181110_125247.jpg

1989 Merkur XR4Ti, yes it's weird.


#71
Ding Dang Mustang

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I love this build. Are you going to find the older double-decker spoiler? (please say yes)



#72
Matt93SE

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whoops!!


And just because I'm a shitty driver doesn't make a miata any less slow.

I drive slow as shit. LOL

geez, now I realize I drive slow everywhere. haha!


#73
Def

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Go for the G-Loc and scuff the rotors clean with 150+grit on an orbital sander or have the rotors turned.  then go play.

Hawk HP+ would be another good choice for starting out.  those guys are a true street pad and will work fine on the street as well, albeit rather noisy and dusty.    but I've never had a problem stopping on them when cold, so there should be less of a concern of under/over driving them..

 

Disagree with that. A Stoptech Sport pad will have a higher max operating temp than an HP+, and not smear on the rotors when you approach/exceed it slightly. And probably a higher MOT than a G-Loc R6/R8. 

 

Honestly, the published specs for Carbotech/G-Loc pads is so much BS it's not even funny (although G-Loc has knocked down some of the pad ratings I see, so they're not AS bad as Carbotech). I've seen lots of cars that could probably do a solid 10-15 mins on a Stoptech Sport absolutely overheat an XP8 or XP10, and they transfer tons of material to the rotors the moment you go over their max temp.

 

 

I wouldn't rag on the pads so hard if they published even half-way realistic MOT numbers. Plus the Carbotech/G-Loc pads are really pricey for their performance. I paid a grip for a full set of pads from them back in the day and over temped them within ~5 mins. So disappointing...



#74
robertcope

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I run the Stoptech Sport pads on the SC400 and the S2000. They are fantastic for what I do with them. I tried to run HP+ pads years ago on the Miata and it didn't work. There is no comparison between the two pads, IMHO. I highly recommend the Stoptech Sport pads. Cheap and they just work!

 

Also, you're spot on regarding Carbotech/G-Loc pads. They're awful. Never again.


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#75
dunhamr1

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I love this build. Are you going to find the older double-decker spoiler? (please say yes)


Thanks for the link on the build!! I *could*... Are you referring to the early XR wing or the cossie big Wang? Working on chassis upgrades at this point, I think I've vacuumed the interior.. once? I cleaned the headlights yesterday but that's been about it cosmetically. Once day.

1989 Merkur XR4Ti, yes it's weird.


#76
dunhamr1

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Disagree with that. A Stoptech Sport pad will have a higher max operating temp than an HP+, and not smear on the rotors when you approach/exceed it slightly. And probably a higher MOT than a G-Loc R6/R8.

Honestly, the published specs for Carbotech/G-Loc pads is so much BS it's not even funny (although G-Loc has knocked down some of the pad ratings I see, so they're not AS bad as Carbotech). I've seen lots of cars that could probably do a solid 10-15 mins on a Stoptech Sport absolutely overheat an XP8 or XP10, and they transfer tons of material to the rotors the moment you go over their max temp.


I wouldn't rag on the pads so hard if they published even half-way realistic MOT numbers. Plus the Carbotech/G-Loc pads are really pricey for their performance. I paid a grip for a full set of pads from them back in the day and over temped them within ~5 mins. So disappointing...


Good to know. G-Loc pads purchased already, but perhaps I'll try Stoptech next time around, have had a few people recommend them (unfortunately after I had ordered the G-Loc pads).

1989 Merkur XR4Ti, yes it's weird.


#77
Def

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I've been in cars where the Carbotech/G-Locs worked well for them. I've also been in some that had bad overheating issues on them. It seems they're just very sensitive to being run above a certain temp for even a brief period. So maybe you'll be fine.

 

I've totally faded Stoptech Sports on the rear of my old S2000 (solid rear rotor, ran hot as balls), and they never transferred any pad material. That's why they're the best dual duty street/track pad IMO. Decent on street with dust being their biggest issue, and pretty good for light to moderate track usage due to a reasonably high MOT. If you do manage to over temp them, you'll just get a slightly longer braking zone with no real ill effect like tons of transferred pad material or the pad material crumbling etc. 



#78
dunhamr1

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I've been in cars where the Carbotech/G-Locs worked well for them. I've also been in some that had bad overheating issues on them. It seems they're just very sensitive to being run above a certain temp for even a brief period. So maybe you'll be fine.

I've totally faded Stoptech Sports on the rear of my old S2000 (solid rear rotor, ran hot as balls), and they never transferred any pad material. That's why they're the best dual duty street/track pad IMO. Decent on street with dust being their biggest issue, and pretty good for light to moderate track usage due to a reasonably high MOT. If you do manage to over temp them, you'll just get a slightly longer braking zone with no real ill effect like tons of transferred pad material or the pad material crumbling etc.


Good to know! We'll see how things go, this is a completely unknown (custom) and untested setup and I'm a novice driver. I may not get into the brakes as much as I should/could, the brake bias could be way off with the staggered disk size, etc.

Hopefully entering am autocross on Sunday with the OE style pads, no way I'd be able to get the G-Locs up to temp in this weather..

1989 Merkur XR4Ti, yes it's weird.