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Painting a roll Cage


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15 replies to this topic

#1
z28pwr

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I bought a car that has a not so well primered roll Cage that is showing some petina in certain areas. What is the quickest way to paint the roll cage and what type of paint should I use?

Thanks

Straight roads are for fast cars, curvy roads are for fast drivers!


#2
blk96gt

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I just finished repainting my cage and used Rustoleum Stop Rust Silver Metallic spray cans.  I would have used the brush on Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy if I had gone with white.



#3
shuko

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Another vote for Rustoleum. Added benefit if you get a color that comes in rattle cans AND brush-on can. That way you can do the big work with rattle can and touch up with a brush later as needed.



#4
Matt93SE

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if there's "patina" on the cage already, you really need to sand/strip it down to bare metal and treat it with Ospho or something to stop the rust.   The cage in my car was a touch brown when I painted it.  I scuffed it with a scotch pad and used Rustoleum "Rusty metal primer" on it.  I then sprayed the entire interior with Rustoleum oil base paint.  A few years later, the cage has some "patina" coming through on it as well.   I'm betting that had I done a better job on prepping the metal and removing surface rust that I would not have the patina that's on it now...

 

As for what paint to use, I've seen the hammered finish silver Rustoleum done and it looks really good.   can be painted or sprayed on, and touch-ups blend easily.  it also hides surface irregularities and fisheyes and such because of hammered finish..


And just because I'm a shitty driver doesn't make a miata any less slow.


#5
justpete

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Corroseal does a great job of converting rust to ferric oxide and priming the surface.  Works really well as long as the loose rust is removed and enough Corroseal is applied to fully convert the iron oxide left.



#6
z28pwr

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Thanks for the info, I'm going to start taking everything out and masking the car this weekend. If anybody lives in San Antonio and wants to help I've got a 24 pack with their name on it ;-)


Straight roads are for fast cars, curvy roads are for fast drivers!


#7
Matt93SE

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one more trick for masking..   aluminum foil works GREAT around stuff you don't need to move during painting.  stuff like the steering column and pedals can be easily and simply wrapped in alu foil, and it comes off easy when you're done painting.

DSCN0149.jpg


And just because I'm a shitty driver doesn't make a miata any less slow.


#8
ht_geordie

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It may be a bit basic of a suggestion, but cover the outside of the car with dust sheets too....



#9
ht_geordie

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one more trick for masking..   aluminum foil works GREAT around stuff you don't need to move during painting.  stuff like the steering column and pedals can be easily and simply wrapped in alu foil, and it comes off easy when you're done painting.

 

 

Wished I'd known the alu foil trick when I painted my cage!!!



#10
robertcope

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+1 to Matt today for that tip. :)

 

robert


Robert B. Cope

 

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#XX - 1992 NSX (red)


#11
Matt93SE

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Wished I'd known the alu foil trick when I painted my cage!!!

I think I learned that from a Grassroots Motorsports article about 10 years ago.

And just because I'm a shitty driver doesn't make a miata any less slow.


#12
BryanPendleton

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Dang you all. . . . making me want to paint my cage.  The one thing I can keep looking decent on this SM.  ;)



#13
Fast2.0L

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I love Eastwood epoxy chassis black. Super durable.

#14
TTWKyle

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Aluminum foil! Brilliant!!!



#15
Kong Sheng Han

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Is it better to paint or powder coat (4-pt bolt-in roll bar in my case)? Rustoleum semi-gloss black was used on it, and it was recommended that I have it powder coated prior to install. 


I'm a lost soul.


#16
Matt93SE

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I would not recommend powder coat.  I've had problems with tube steel structures moving slightly as the heat applied during the powder curing process tends to stress-relieve the tubing and will cause dimensional change.  I used to build chassis braces that would fit perfectly on my fab jigs after welding.  I'd send them out for powdercoating, and they would be 1/4" off when I got them back!

 

Also many places will remove any old painted finish by burning them clean with a huge torch or putting them in a really hot oven and burning and old paint or oil off them.  some will sandblast at your request, but most will not go through the effort to hand-sand and solvent-clean something that size due to the time and chemicals involved.  it's WAY less time consuming to blast it with fire or sand.

 

That said, Rustoleum's Hammered Finish stuff works great.. it's easy to apply with brush or roller (or spray if it's out of the car)  and can be touched up easily if you ding it up.


And just because I'm a shitty driver doesn't make a miata any less slow.