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rdrngrp

WTB: Track car for HPDE

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It seems finding one is the trick.

There are quite a few listed on the NASA and BMWCCA forums if you want an E36.

 

My 240 is still cheaper and runs sub 2:00 at TWS.  it's been about 10 years since I was at MSR-C and it was a street car then, but it put down some 1:32s way back when.  I've run a 2:10 at ECR.

That's on the stock *tired, 120k mile* engine.  You can build an engine or drop an SR in it and have a car that'll reliably put down 300whp for under $12k.

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DCT's are notorious for overheating, and I don't think you'll find a decent track car with one for under $15K.

 

Whatever you decide, I'd buy a car that is already track prepped or only needs minor upgrades, or at least factor that into your budget.  Almost every car I'm familiar with needs some work to make it track reliable, and reliability seems to go down as the power goes up.

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DCT's are notorious for overheating, and I don't think you'll find a decent track car with one for under $15K.

 

Whatever you decide, I'd buy a car that is already track prepped or only needs minor upgrades, or at least factor that into your budget.  Almost every car I'm familiar with needs some work to make it track reliable, and reliability seems to go down as the power goes up.

I do realize the DCT thing is a pipe dream that I will have to satisfy sometime in the future.

I also am concerned about the reliability of one on the track.

I would rather get a prepped car that only needs a little touch up. The purchase of the car and the touch up all need to fit into the 15K budget.

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If you are going full dedicated track car, don't forget to add in a trailer and a tow vehicle. Driving to the track becomes difficult with extra wheels - and then impossible with a roll cage.

 

Alternately, you could get a 986 boxster and convert it to a dedicated track car at your leisure. It's more expensive to do it this way, but you get to spread the costs over time and also see the fruits of your mods. A decent one can be had for under 15k easily.

 

-td

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If you are going full dedicated track car, don't forget to add in a trailer and a tow vehicle. Driving to the track becomes difficult with extra wheels - and then impossible with a roll cage.

 

Alternately, you could get a 986 boxster and convert it to a dedicated track car at your leisure. It's more expensive to do it this way, but you get to spread the costs over time and also see the fruits of your mods. A decent one can be had for under 15k easily.

 

-td

I have a truck and trailer already. I trailer to the track not only to carry tools and in case of a break down, but also because after two days of driving the truck is more comfortable to drive home in.

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Check out an ASA/GTA race car. Full on safety, it's a tube frame race car, not a production car with a cage put in. 2,600 lbs, Chevy LS1 ~410-420 HP at the wheels, Jerico 4-speed (no clutch for shifting), quick change rear end, $650 for a set of Hoosier bias ply slicks. Turn key for $20-25k. Hard to find a faster car for the money that is race ready. These are no compromise cars. Operating cost is low. Safety is paramount.

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Sounds like you have all the basics you would need for a real race car.  If you can swing it, you might consider upping the budget a hair and buying a log-booked car.  You can get an E class, SPB, S996  and a host of other cars with just a little more than 15K (and a prepped SM for about that).  S996 will be closer to the C4.  I'm not a big fan of SM for DE unless you are very fast and can run with "that pack."  IMO, it's more enjoyable to run with folks.  Those that race SM will tell you it's as good as racing any platform. 

 

Put differently, if you are going to buy a dedicated track car, at some point you will likely want to make the jump to a real race car.  It'll cost more to leap frog it, and you won't get the safety of a real race car in a DE car. 

 

-td

 

I have a truck and trailer already. I trailer to the track not only to carry tools and in case of a break down, but also because after two days of driving the truck is more comfortable to drive home in.

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Sounds like you have all the basics you would need for a real race car.  If you can swing it, you might consider upping the budget a hair and buying a log-booked car.  You can get an E class, SPB, S996  and a host of other cars with just a little more than 15K (and a prepped SM for about that).  S996 will be closer to the C4.  I'm not a big fan of SM for DE unless you are very fast and can run with "that pack."  IMO, it's more enjoyable to run with folks.  Those that race SM will tell you it's as good as racing any platform. 

 

Put differently, if you are going to buy a dedicated track car, at some point you will likely want to make the jump to a real race car.  It'll cost more to leap frog it, and you won't get the safety of a real race car in a DE car. 

 

-td

This is what I am finding. I could up the budget a little for the right car. I found a prepped TT2 C5Z in AZ. The posting is old though and I did not hear back. A spec 996 might be more than a little more.

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I'm seriously thinking about selling my 370z that has all the track day stuff needed to be reliable in Texas. It also has the surge fuel tank/second fuel pump which is a big selling point for faster drivers. It is about as fast as David's 350z (little more power, little more weight). 

2:27 MSR

1:56 TWS

2:34 COTA

 

2009 Platnum Graphite Touring with Sport package and Persimmon interior. Only 16k miles and overall in very good condition. 

Clear Bra since day one. 
Stillen Intake 
Berk HFC
BC ER series coilovers 
CJD surge gas tank 
Quaife Diff 
Finned Nismo Diff cover
Setrab series 9 wide 25 row oil cooler system 
Mishimoto radiator
Stillen brake ducts
Eibach front swaybar 
Stillen Rear swaybar
SPL front control arms
SPL rear mid link
SPL rear camber arm
SPL end links front and rear
SPL rear Lockout kit
Z1 2-piece rotors. Stock rotors included
Carbotech XP10/XP8 brake pads. Stock pads included 
275/35/19 f 305/30/19 r Hankook RS-3
H&R DRS wheel spacers
Ported Throttle boddies 
M370
Uprev Tuner version
Never wrecked. Only off track 3 times ever.
I would take $22k as is or I could remove some of the SPL suspension stuff and a few other things and get the price down to $20k.

dr_-albums-cota-dec-6-7-2015-drivers-edg

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I'm seriously thinking about selling my 370z that has all the track day stuff needed to be reliable in Texas. It also has the surge fuel tank/second fuel pump which is a big selling point for faster drivers. It is about as fast as David's 350z (little more power, little more weight). 

 

 

Ha! He's being modest. He kicks my butt on street tires. 

 

So what would you drive on track if you got rid of the Z? 

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There are quite a few listed on the NASA and BMWCCA forums if you want an E36.

 

My 240 is still cheaper and runs sub 2:00 at TWS.  it's been about 10 years since I was at MSR-C and it was a street car then, but it put down some 1:32s way back when.  I've run a 2:10 at ECR.

That's on the stock *tired, 120k mile* engine.  You can build an engine or drop an SR in it and have a car that'll reliably put down 300whp for under $12k.

 

Matt's S14 would be a GREAT starting point. It's already got a cage and a good suspension setup. That's the expensive and hard part IMO. Making it a bit faster is easier IMO.

 

For HPDE usage, it isn't hard making more power with the KA. Hell, you could toss in a set of $300 cams and a cheap tune and be putting out about 170-180 rwhp. It's not a ton, but it's going to keep up fine with most advanced cars bar the straightline beasts.

 

Or you can get a pretty cheap turbo setup and swap it in with the stock fitment SR20DET aftermarket components (exhaust, intercooler etc.). The stock engine would be perfectly happy at ~250-300 rwhp on the track with more torques. Total cost would be about $1-3k depending on how handy you are (it's not hard though). 

 

If you want to go really fast, more is there to be had. I tracked my bone stock SR20DET at over 300 rwhp for a long time with no issues. I guess it was in the 320-340 rwhp range on track, 400 rwhp on street. I turned it down for heat reasons to do full sessions, but if I had tried fixing that harder it could have been run closer to 400 rwhp. 

 

 

But the real beauty of an S-chassis is that replacement components are cheap, and it's a great driving RWD package that's pretty light, but has factory engines that can make power without issue. Think of it as Japans take on an everyman's E30/E36. 

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Check out an ASA/GTA race car. Full on safety, it's a tube frame race car, not a production car with a cage put in. 2,600 lbs, Chevy LS1 ~410-420 HP at the wheels, Jerico 4-speed (no clutch for shifting), quick change rear end, $650 for a set of Hoosier bias ply slicks. Turn key for $20-25k. Hard to find a faster car for the money that is race ready. These are no compromise cars. Operating cost is low. Safety is paramount.

 

This car is available, it is prepared by and based out of Pinnacle Autosports at ECR. It is a 2-seater ASA/GTA race car. A 2-seater is more of a rare bird - very nice option as most of these cars (like mine) are driver only. With this one you can have an instructor or scare the living daylights out of your passenger LOL! Price is a firm $26K from what I recall, all very nice components. These cars are built to be beat on, very simple, tube-frame, purpose-built race cars with composite bodies (carbon fiber hood). Great for a track day car - there is NO compromise, this is full-on safety, not a production car with a roll cage (put in/engineered by who?). It is engineered for safety and speed. When you decide to go wheel to wheel racing this will run in SCCA GT2/GTA and with NASA I believe it would be ST1 (a NASA racer can provide more info). If you'd like contact info just let me know.

 

post-988-0-04462400-1458578184_thumb.jpg

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You should probably add E36 M3 to your list. No DCT, but I can't imagine they are too expensive. They are quick and there is a huge community to fall back on for resources. Just get TTW to take care of everything for ya. 

 

The Miata is a great platform to develop the driver. But given that you're used to more power, I agree with the statement above. An E36 may be the right choice for you.

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You should probably add E36 M3 to your list. No DCT, but I can't imagine they are too expensive. They are quick and there is a huge community to fall back on for resources. Just get TTW to take care of everything for ya.

 

Some may say I'm a bit biased, but this idea sound pretty good to me...

 

https://scontent-dfw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xla1/t31.0-8/12513561_993026174099017_4371936708659812529_o.jpg

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OK then, Kyle, Hook me up. :)

 

I'm working on putting together the details for each of the cars we discussed, I'll have it in the next day or two. Until then, check out the threat I just posted with the in car footage from a couple of our E36 GTS cars... its some pretty exciting racing and before you know it, you too will praise the E36 as the greatest car ever built!

 

https://www.trackjunkies.org/topic/4841-some-exciting-in-car-gts2-action-from-2015-student-vs-teacher/

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Check out an ASA/GTA race car. Full on safety, it's a tube frame race car, not a production car with a cage put in. 2,600 lbs, Chevy LS1 ~410-420 HP at the wheels, Jerico 4-speed (no clutch for shifting), quick change rear end, $650 for a set of Hoosier bias ply slicks. Turn key for $20-25k. Hard to find a faster car for the money that is race ready. These are no compromise cars. Operating cost is low. Safety is paramount.

 

So much want once I get my kids through college. Love the thought of an overbuilt but light(ish) car with a mild (run forever at that power level) V-8.

 

How long do the Hoosiers last? Brakes?

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Depends on whether you are doing track days or racing - and where you are racing. For track days you can get a fair amount of cycles out of the tires, I do not really do track days with it much anymore, primarily it's practice at a track on scrubs from the previous race then stickers for qualifying and the Sat/Sun race and then that set of tires is used for the next practice and the cycle repeats. Brakes are good for days. Just use the right components/fluid.

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