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2008 Nissan 350Z Build Thread


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#1
Dave

Dave

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I bought my Z before I had even heard of HPDEs. I started modding it like most folks do with bolt-ons like intake, exhaust and audio. My first mods were to get the Injen long tube intake and Hotchkis sway bars front and rear. I ran both sway bars while tracking for a long time until I learned I could cure my oversteer issues by going back to the stock rear sway bar. Now I just have the front sway bar set to the second stiffest setting out of 4. 

 

 

51ef3de134eb0_DSC00250.jpg

 

I then added the HKS exhaust. The intake added some power on the top end and the exhaust just made it louder. It didn't add any power. 

 

51ef4212ca264_HKScrop.jpg

 

I then did a couple events and realized I needed to upgrade the brakes so I got the Stoptech ST40 BBK for the front. 

 

51ef428c4490d_DSC00689.jpg

 

I then did a few more events and realized I needed an oil cooler. So I got a 24 row cooler. I had to remove the injen intake to get it to fit. I figured it was more important to have a engine with less power that actually runs vs a dead engine that made more power at one point. 

 

51ef440ecd350_IMG_0077.jpg

 

I bought a OS Giken LSD and 4.05 final drive gear in July of 2011 but the vendor did not honor the sale. I had to dispute the charge through my credit card company and after several months of waiting I got my money back. I decided to hold off on mods after that. 

 

In March 2012 I decided to get dedicated track wheels and tires. I had started burning through my street tires rather quickly and I figured it'd be cheaper in the long run to pull the trigger. That meant I needed to get a trailer to pull my tires since I can't afford a tow vehicle. I went with a square setup of Enkei RPF1s 9.5X18 +15 and NT01 275/35/18. I got lucky and scored a South Sport Trailer from a fellow TJer. It was designed for Miata tires. He was kind enough to cut and weld it up to fit my bigger wheels and tires. 

 

I also had to get new upper control arms to get more camber up front and to get the super wide tires to tuck under the fender. I ended up getting the SPL V3 upper control arm. I found that -2.5 degrees was the magic number for me. 

 

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My abs module and pump broke in October of 2012 and I replaced it in November. I ordered a new one from Nissan and I had a little trouble getting it. They had changed the part number from "47660 CF43A" to "47660 CF43B." I assume they made a change to fix the problem because I read about many Zs running into the same problem. Actually a good friend of mine with a red 08 Z (same year as mine) had the exact same problem, and it went bad within weeks of mine crapping out. 


2008 - Nissan 350Z        - Build Thread

1966 - Datsun Roadster - Build Thread

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#2
dotframe

dotframe

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Love those Enkeis!  Pics of them on the car?



#3
Dave

Dave

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Thanks! I do. It looks like a 4X4 on stock suspension.

 

 

photo%25283%2529.jpg

 

But it looks ok under load. lol

 

51f0502a55adf_IMG_18348.jpg

 

The whole reason why I started this thread was to document how I will fix the issue. I have some goodies on the way to my house. I feel like a kid on christmas eve waiting to open presents. 


2008 - Nissan 350Z        - Build Thread

1966 - Datsun Roadster - Build Thread

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#4
smiley

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Love these build threads. Those Stop Techs are the right choice for your car.

Steve

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#5
bigjae1976

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I thought your car was stock? ;)



#6
Dave

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I think the term I used was "pretty much stock." secret.gif You won't hear me say that at the next event though. 


2008 - Nissan 350Z        - Build Thread

1966 - Datsun Roadster - Build Thread

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#7
Dave

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I ordered a few parts from amazon to build my brake cooling system. I tried to enact my original plan that I thought was flawless and simple. It turns out I was completely wrong as usual. There wasn't enough room behind the bumper to fit all the pieces I ordered. I'm returning the parts and moving to plan B. I'm only 60% sure this is going to work. I'd rather it didn't look like dog poop when I'm done, but I might just have to deal with it looking like amateur hour. 

 

Oh and I drove it around the block for the first time in about 3 months and the brakes went to the floor. I don't know what that's about. I don't have a leak so I guess I got air in the system just sitting in my garage. Huh?


2008 - Nissan 350Z        - Build Thread

1966 - Datsun Roadster - Build Thread

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#8
Dave

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After doing some reading on the interbone I think I have a bad brake master cylinder. Here's the question, there are two different ones. One is for the Brembo setup and the other is for the base non-Brembo. I bought the car with the non-brembo brakes but I now have the Stoptech front BBK. I'm figuring I should get the brembo master cylinder. Thoughts anyone?


2008 - Nissan 350Z        - Build Thread

1966 - Datsun Roadster - Build Thread

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#9
robertcope

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If I had to guess, I would guess that the different master cylinders are proportioned differently; the Brembo setup is probably biased a bit more towards the front. I would run with the Brembo setup, personally, since you have the BBK.

 

Of course, I have been known to make mistakes... from time to time...

 

robert


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#10
Dave

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I was thinking the same thing. Then I checked my service manual and it showed a different brake booster for the brembos. I think I answered my own question now. I guess I'll go with the non-brembo MS to match the brake booster. 

 

51f5805d7dfcc_brakeSpecs.jpg


2008 - Nissan 350Z        - Build Thread

1966 - Datsun Roadster - Build Thread

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#11
Matt93SE

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The mc is the same for both models, just the booster changes for brembo/ non. For any website saying there's a diff, they're toopid.

And just because I'm a shitty driver doesn't make a miata any less slow.


#12
Chris S

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I'd call Stoptech to see if they have a recommendation.
Chris
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#13
Dave

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I will mess with the master cylinder junk in a bit. Time for some parts porn!!! I ran into a bit of a problem with the rear mid link spring perches. The rear springs that came with the Ohlins are 4 inch in diameter but the perch in SPL mid link are for a 2.5 inch spring. Ohlins designed the spring to fit the stock perch back there, but I didn't want to use it. I just ordered some Eibach springs from Summit for the rear. Problem solved. It just takes money, thats all. 

 

20130729_221656.jpg


2008 - Nissan 350Z        - Build Thread

1966 - Datsun Roadster - Build Thread

YouTube Channel


#14
VoBoy

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NICE!  Now you just need the OS Giken diff and you'll be flyin'!



#15
Dave

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Yeah! I'm on the fence about the diff. I can't decide between OS Giken and the Nismo GT diff. It only needs to be streetable to and from the track. I will probably get the diff next year or 2015 if the Z hadn't blown up by then.

 

On another note, my rear springs came in and I think they'll fit just fine. I went with a Eibach 400 lbs./in. linear spring. The rear spring that came with the Ohlins was a progressive spring 315-400 lbs./in. Maybe I should have gone with a stiffer spring, but what the heck do I know. (Nothing about suspension tuning!!) That's why I am starting this project. I need/want to learn this stuff.


2008 - Nissan 350Z        - Build Thread

1966 - Datsun Roadster - Build Thread

YouTube Channel


#16
kmccauley

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What gives, Dave? We demand entertainment.



#17
Dave

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I got the coilovers intalled this past weekend. It went pretty well. I did run into a couple problems. I bought the wrong size spring for the rear. Its too long. I got an 8 inch spring, and I should have gotten a 6 inch. No biggie, I'm sending them back to summit for an exchange. I will post some pics after the rear springs get in. I have to be careful going under overpasses right now because its so high. The rear sway bar isn't connected because I chewed up the thread on one end of an endlink. I should be able to clean it up, but I'll save that for another day.

 

At any rate I did some low speed testing around the hood to make sure I didn't screw anything up. She feels a little frisky. I can tell a difference in the steering response.

 

My front ride height is about 1/8 inch lower than stock right now. I'm might go a little lower (maybe 1/2 inch) but I don't want to much lower in the front. The rear is actually HIGHER than stock (about 1/5 inch) right now with the ride height at its lowest setting. Yes, I'm an idot, but I can fix it. I want the rear to be about 1 1/2 inch lower.

 

I have the rebound adjustment set to what ohlins recommended for right now. I just want to get everything else dialed in before I start playing with that.

 

I've been driving around without the front of the car on. The brake cooling ducts are coming along. I've made some brackets and removed the washer fluid reservoir. I have a general idea of how to route the tubing, but now that I have the track tires on and suspension in, I can start laying it out. I wiil put some pics together soon to document.


2008 - Nissan 350Z        - Build Thread

1966 - Datsun Roadster - Build Thread

YouTube Channel


#18
kmccauley

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Did you seriously type all of that in less than 1 minute? 

 

(Edit, so as not to set off more annoying notifications): Nice! Post some pics from the install and the finished product. Smart to keep ride height pretty close to the various geometries that the suspension components were designed for. Watch out for the overpasses.



#19
Dave

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Ha ha!! I was typing it up and about to post it when I heard the notification of your post. I've made some revisions. I never get it right the first time.


2008 - Nissan 350Z        - Build Thread

1966 - Datsun Roadster - Build Thread

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#20
VoBoy

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Are ya sure it should be 6inch?  I'd do 6.5 or 7inch just to be safe... I think SPL had a calculator...I'm sure you used it though.

 

http://cdn.splparts....gCalculator.xls