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About Bryant

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    Track Addict

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    95 Civic hatch, 97 Civic hatch
  1. Here is a thread update with before and after pics. First pic is with an oem single cam vtec harness that's been de-loomed, rerouted, partially tucked, and re-loomed. Second pic is with the Rywire harness, which is much lighter, has all new wires and oem style connectors, has no extraneous connectors, and deletes a driver side shock tower plug. The new harness also deletes a couple of junction connectors found underneath the intake manifold that make troubleshooting difficult and tend to fail. Before: After:
  2. Thanks for the Adel clamp suggestion. That’s a great idea and those things are pretty easy to find. Maybe sand the metal down and paint them black so they don’t stand out. The body harness in my racecar is secured by adel clamps bolted to regularly spaced nutserts. Mounting the clamps on studs probably would be easier in terms of maintenance for the engine compartment. Now off to see what motoiq has to say...
  3. The signal to noise ratio on this forum is great. Any good looking harness mounting hardware that doesn’t involve zip ties?
  4. Thanks for the quick responses, TJs! Tech flex stuff looks nice and comes in harness kits for $40. Will update this thread with before and after photos when done.
  5. 1) Does anyone have a recommendation for good looking and functional wire harness sleeving? I usually use plastic conduit wrapped in high temp electrical tape since that's the way that the factory Honda harness is done. All that tape makes the harness heavy, inflexible, and pretty unremarkable if not ugly in the looks department. I like the look of the braided stuff but I don't have a clue where to start. 2) What are you doing for strain relief on harnesses? I'll usually wrap the harness with short segments of appropriately sized rubber hose or plastic conduit, then wrap that in tape so you can't tell it's there, then zip tie it to a bracket where you can't see it unless you're looking for it. It works but I'm not a big fan of using zip ties and electrical tape under any circumstances much less to secure fragile 20+ year old wiring. EDIT: After a lot of research, I finally decided to buy a Rywire engine harness for the car. It would not have been possible to make a harness as nice as theirs for a price that low if I'd done all of the work myself. Their communication and support is pretty great, too. The motoIQ article linked here is pretty good. A couple of project binky episodes show in depth how to correctly modify an oem quality harness... definitely worth a watch if you're interested in wiring.
  6. I used a threaded shifter extension for about a day. The shifter location was great, but a lot more torque was applied to the forks/trans by increasing the lever arm like matt said. Ground the gears pretty good going into second when street tuning the car, and the extra torque on the shifter forced the syncros to engage, likely doing some damage that wouldn't have been done with a normal length shifter.
  7. Factors I would consider (in no particular order): 1) Commonly modified chassis- almost all issues or bugs are known and documented online with readily available aftermarket solutions 2) OEM parts are still available and easy to acquire 3) Not a ton of emissions equipment to deal with so the car can maintain street registration relatively easily without a lot of wasted time hunting down CEL's related to emissions equipment. 4) Something you would want to keep and use in the event that the car develops sentimental value 5) Aftermarket support 6) Something that holds your interest and is cool to both of you 7) Budget 8) Purpose of the car Under 20K e46 non zhp 330ci with a build based eventually on doing spec e46 350Z 240sx Under 10K 92-95 civic/integra with b series swap Miata I'd stay away from CRX because so many parts are no longer available. Looks like we're all coming up with basically the same list.
  8. Holy crap. I didn’t realize this post would get so long. This is my camaro experience. A Camaro 2ss with magnetic shocks and the 1LE front brakes is a great daily driver and is quick on track. Super comfy cruiser. I was putting in nearly 3 hours a day in mine before switching to a job without a commute. The infotainment screen is easy to use and good looking. With the blind spot monitors on the 2ss, there are no visibility issues since you’re a fairly tall guy. You get used to trusting the bsm after a couple of weeks if you’ve never used them. I’m 6’3”, and I fit in the car with a helmet with the seat reclined a tad. Camaro is big enough for baby seat and wife. Trunk sucks. The standard 4 piston brakes on the ss (which is what I have) are the weak point. I’ve run xr1’s in the front and rear, which were great and didn’t fade with the deflectors installed. I’ve run the stock pads on less grippier than stock tires without the brake air deflector thingys installed, and the brakes did start to fade to the point that I considered coming off track toward the end of long sessions in 85 deg weather. It is way way easier to keep up with everyone in a car with hp than one without horsepower; yeah obvious but mind blowing if you’ve only driven the Miata on track. LT1’s 455 hp is plenty for the street. LT4 would be even plentier, though. The difference between the 1LE and the 2ss at hpde probably comes down to tires and driver skill, so the entire 1LE package may not be worth the added cost. If it’s a daily, you’re out there for fun anyway. Depreciation on the 2ss won’t hurt as much as the ZL1. So all that being said, the 2SS is probably the most practical and daily friendly if you’re going to drive it a lot. But they’re a dime a dozen now that the 6th gen has been out for a couple years. I wouldn’t even worry about the cost of consumables at a few events per year. Especially at the zl1’s extremely reasonable price:performance ratio. No one is going to want to talk to you about your mustang gt or non z06 vette or camaro ss or brz (except to ask you about the torque dip), but everyone will want to talk to you about the zl1. I’ve had a couple of issues with the camaro. The diff whined shortly after I got it. Dealer replaced fluid a couple of times and the whine went away. The infotainment screen has refused to turn on twice. Once about a month after I got the car and once about 3 months ago. Restarted car and was fine. Otherwise, car has been rock solid. The dual mode exhaust is one of my favorite features, so get that if it’s an option. I went through the same decision process a couple of years ago. Eventually decided that it’s probably best to have a caged, street legal, dedicated track car regardless of what the daily is. Driving an expensive car on track that you have to preserve makes track weekends a much different experience if you’re used to driving a car to its limits. It’s less fun.
  9. I ended up throwing it out reluctantly because had wayyyy too much car and sim racing crap to move.
  10. I can ship it but I don’t know when or if I’ll have enough time to get it done this week. Several engines, cars, tools, spares to pack up and move not to mention the rest of the house. If you really want it and you don’t mind paying whatever the shipping is, I’ll put it aside for you. What’s your zip?
  11. Fs: 3 benq 2760hs bought in 2016. $120 for all three. In DFW. We’re moving out of our house this week. Prefer not to ship. Monitors are in great shape. I cut a piece out of the front of one of the monitor stands to get the screens closer to me. Ugly but still functional. VA panel, 60hz refresh rate, good pixel response time, very thin bezels. Worked well for triples. Only complaint is motion blur inherent to va panels. GTX 970: sold Wheelstand pro: $20. I made a mount for my pedals and then made that pedal mount into a shifter mount when I stopped using the wheelstand. Not sure if I still have the little metal bar and long bolt the wheelstand pro comes with. A piece of barstock and a bolt from Home Depot are all you need for g29/920 pedals.
  12. Also listed with all other racing for the weekend at http://tvracer.com
  13. The three machine shops in town that I've had good experiences with are Endyn, Alamo Autosports, and Watt's shop. Brice at Alamo is probably the best bet out of the three of those for doing something unusual like this. He turned my head around in a couple of days, but turn around time all depends on how busy he is. Endyn does good work, but they take a long time. Watt is a wizard - he's sort of hard to find. If you want but can't find his contact number, pm me.
  14. This is such an awesome car. I want it.
  15. It's my mother in law's 1969 Camaro. She brought it brand new in high school. It's been wrecked once and it has a replacement 350ci engine in it, but it's damn near perfect even close up in person. Everything else is exactly as the car was delivered to her from the showroom. She still drives it to work occasionally. I'm going to have to take it out for parade laps at a TDE event some day.
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