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Andris

Junkies
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About Andris

  • Rank
    Track Addict

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  • Gender
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  • Location
    Austin, TX
  • Track Vehicle
    Gradient Racing

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  1. Hey, we're building those turn-key Civics in Austin in anyone wants to see one 🙂 The cooling issues are well documented, and while I didn't do the development I believe the package we add to the car is a major improvement and races well. The HPD test car did a lot of miles in the desert, and spent some time in the factory heat-load chamber in this config. It's basically bigger rad, vented hood, reverse flow hoses, 2 big oil coolers, mesh side grills, and boxed shrouding around everything. It would be a lot for an occasional-use track car of course.. Andris
  2. The stock brake package can handle heavy use, but they require ducting. Backing plates that cover the ID of the rotor, ducted to the front bumper are necessary (I think the Goodwin kit is fine). Don't use a 2-piece rotor (worse performance), the Centric blanks are good. The best pad combo we landed on with our IMSA cars was Pagid RS 29 front / RS 44 rear, but everyone has a favorite brand. Having tested the brake package to its limits and well beyond, in hot endurance racing, this combo is pretty good. Andris
  3. Located in Round Rock/Pflugerville, local pick up ONLY, Cash Only. $100 come get them today at Gradient Racing (DM for address, Grand Ave exit off I-35), we're cleaning out one of our shipping containers. (2) super fancy folding aluminum hanging workbenches from Arrow Components. They drop on round bobbins and you hang them on the outside of the trailer, hang them on another set inside for storage. Have the bobbins, may be missing 1 or 2 total. http://www.arrowawnings.com/flip-bench.html As a bonus, take home as many scrap 18" race tires as you'd like LOL. Andris
  4. Are you confident this caliper change is an improvement? It looks like the pad sweeps a good bit less rotor surface than stock, and the stock brakes are really quite good. For a NC or RX-8, the big RX8 brakes are difficult to beat under a 17" wheel. Andris
  5. The cam tooth does not need to be at TDC, its location just needs to be established relative to the crank teeth and to TDC. My shop (Gradient Racing) has a dyno and I know the old/new Motec stuff well. When the time comes, please reach out and I'd be happy to work with you. We are located in the Pflugerville/Round Rock area. Cheers, Andris
  6. Got it. Sounds like you are still at square 1, if you changed the cam trigger setup, and cams, etc. Is the new cam trigger wheel the same configuration as before? Meaning, 1 tooth, multi tooth, etc? If not, you'll need to go back a step and verify the ref/sync setup before messing with the index position. If it's the same configuration, your best bet is to physically verify the relative positions of the cam and crank teeth, and come up with a close estimate of their timing in the engine cycle. When you do this carefully, you won't be more than 5-10 degrees off when you go to fine tune it with the timing light. The slides in this Motec presentation give a good basic overview of how cam and crank teeth are used. Take the spark plugs out and manually turn the engine over, mark the crank pulley/front cover/timing marks with a paint pen at TDC (cyl 1 compression stroke), and draw your own paper diagram of which teeth pass each sensor in what order for 2 crank revolutions. It's very easy to derive from there the approx CRIP.
  7. CRIP just sets the location of TDC, and you can do that with a timing light with or without sync errors. If it's unclear which half of the cycle you are on, because you don't know the actual position of the cam trigger, you can try adding +360 to the number. They will often produce a short term sync error when you first start cranking, but should be able to be cleared (even while the engine still cranks). Don't think you're getting spark? Does it spark the spark plug out of the engine when you crank? 🙂 Once? More than once? I can probably help a little more with some more info (type of car, triggers, etc.).
  8. We can do this at Gradient Racing in Austin (formerly CJ Wilson Racing), and have lots of experience building and dealing with many shock brands. I'll be back in the office Friday, send me an email - [email protected] Andris Laivins
  9. We build cages/chassis/cars at Gradient Racing (Formerly CJ Wilson Racing / Laivins Race Cars). Have some openings for work in the spring, depending on your schedule and needs. We're definitely on the higher end of the quality/cost spectrum, but build pro-level cars. Gary Banks is also good from what I've heard. He's an offroad guy who has done some roadrace cages for people. Andris
  10. No issue with those, good to go.
  11. Having paid professionals and done interiors in-house in equal numbers over the years, it's all a crap-shoot. A half-decent paint shop will be 1000-1500 to do the interior if they have any idea what they are getting into. If someone says they are going to do it for $500 run away because they have no idea. Even the $1500 guys routinely miss bottoms of cage tubes etc. it's very frustrating. The only great interiors I've had done in the last handful of years were when we sent the whole chassis to powdercoat (~1000 but it has to be BARE, on a rotisserie). Brush painting the cage as you describe will come out just fine, and the rustoleum industrial stuff is pretty good, just mix it well (or have home depot shake on their machine). Expect to let it fully cure for a couple days before it really starts to get hard. If you are doing this in your home garage, this is the way I'd go. If you want to DIY spray the whole interior and make a big mess, get a $40 harbor freight HVLP gun, a cartridge respirator and disposable bunny suit, mask/cover anything you don't want overspray on, and spray 2-component epoxy sealer on everything. Like this, available at autobody stores, with activator (have them shake/mix the can before you take it home and add hardener): https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/transtar-2k-epoxy-primersealer-gray-dtm-quart-6134-p-25192.aspx It sprays easy, sticks to everything as long as you wipe down with solvent first, and looks pretty decent without paint/clear over it.
  12. Anything you can do is some variation of the link posted. Gotta remove the headless bolts and do something sketchy from there or junk the whole assembly. Or just don't bother - I can't recall anyone ever checking this in tech, and if you're using the key still, it's very unlikely to ever be a problem.
  13. Forget about wheel load, you are just trying to measure the wheel toe in/out at different suspension travel positions. If you were measuring toe with strings for an alignment, you'd measure the front and back of the rim to the string, and the difference is the toe. Doesn't matter how far the rim is from the string, which is all you are measuring with your current setup. Doesn't tell you anything about which way the wheel is pointed. https://www.mittlerbros.com/bump-steer-gauge.html You may have been led astray by pics of some other bump steer gauges that only have one dial indicator, but that's misleading because they restrain the other edge so the gauge pivots only requiring one dial.
  14. Stop and reset. You are not measuring bumpsteer with what's pictured. You need two dial indicators on each side of the hub and take the difference between the two. A lot of what you are measuring is just the suspension traveling through its arc, not the steering angle change. You could literally have the opposite bumpsteer from what you think you're measuring. The range of travel you should care about it roughly -1" droop from ride height to maybe +2" in compression. In that range, even with a strut, you should be able to get the bumpsteer down towards 0.050" or better depending on the car across those 3" of travel..
  15. The 6 speed NC gearbox has a few areas that will eventually give you issues on a track car. Just about all of them are internal, so unless you are going to open it up... The plastic bushings (square, with round hole) on the shift "rockers" inside disintegrate and eventually break and fall apart. In racing, this will even happen on the first outing with a new gearbox. When we ran the NCs we had billet replacements made. The "adjuster" cam shaft thing you are talking about for 3/4 has some effect, but only really effects the end of the lever travel where the shifter can hit the stops fore and aft. The shaft itself develops some clearance to the case, allowing some flex which doesn't help. The top plate on the gearbox, which houses most of the shift rods, linkage, and forks can develop some wear in a couple ways. The shift detent spring for 3-4 is not strong enough and can be replaced and shimmed to increase preload. Also, the detent balls themselves start to deform the bores they ride in (aluminum) and eventually start sticking some. It's also likely the synchros and shift hubs (and aluminum shift forks) are simply getting worn, both on the friction face and on the angled teeth with the mileage/track days. This will increase the resistance trying to get it into the next gear. The motor mounts might help the feel, but they will have little effect on the actual shifting, as the shifter is direct mounted in the trans. Unfortunately, I probably know more about this gearbox (and car, to an extent) than anyone in the country, so let me know if you have more q's. Andris
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