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Everything posted by Matt93SE

  1. Just throwing out ideas, but is the car lowered any/much? If the car is lowered from normal position much, the plunge depth on the CVs could be causing the axles to bottom out and cause issues with the CV joint and blow grease out. it could also simply be overpacked w/ grease or have an issue with a boot seal as you mentioned. point is, take a look at the angles of everything and make sure a suspension mod isn't causing other axle issues. 🙂
  2. All of my meters are a little off right now.. 😕
  3. Sikky has been in the LS swap world for a while. they're known in the 240 crowd.. Also look at Vorshlag. not sure what they used in theirs, but it's worth looking at how they did it regardless. Terry never does anything half-assed. 🙂
  4. I did see one available separately online a few weeks ago. unfortunately, I don't remember the brand of sliders or the site, but I did see the handle thingy separately from the sliders themselves. A quick fleabay search turned up a couple. not sure if they'll work for your particular set though.. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313.TR2.TRC1.A0.H0.Xrecardo+seat+slider.TRS0&_nkw=recardo+seat+slider&_sacat=0
  5. One of those boxes should include a couch or a cot. you might need it soon. 😉 Welcome to the addiction!
  6. Depending on price, maybe... 😉 I just bought a '17 parts car, but I'll have to swap the '13-16 electronics and sensors and such on it to make it work in this chassis. a spare engine and trans may be a good idea to have in the garage, but I'm really hurting for race moneys since I spent $7k on parts car alone. hoping I can clear out the interior of that car and make a decent chunk of that back.
  7. Austin Snader just posted up an LS1 from a GTO for sale on FB... complete with Trans, ECU, etc. maybe not the "perfect option", but it's there... and $3500 for the guts. all you need is the mounting bits, header, exhaust, etc etc etc
  8. Just like buying dedicated rain tires.
  9. Same here. I'm just a few min from MSRH, so I have to drive straight through Houston and DFW. towing a beast of a trailer, it usually took about 6hrs for me when I used to race up there. I will certainly go back for race weekends, but membership is not feasible.
  10. Man I really wish ECR was closer. would also be cool if local track would 'upgrade', but I'm certainly not knocking that it's there. I'm fortunate to have a track 10 min from the house.
  11. 🙈🙉🙊 It is not out of the realm of possibility. I didn't miss a shift, but was certainly pushing it.. an overrev on a downshift, or simply being that close to the redline for much of the track might (was?) too much for the engine. the wound was certainly inflicted by something I did. would be nice to figure it out so I can learn to not do it again.
  12. not sure a spontaneous mechanical failure would show up on data.. if I'd run it hot or oil pressure was dropping, etc.. sure, I could see that in the data. but how would a rod failure show up?
  13. More power = more cylinder pressure = more load on the rods= shorter lifespan. no matter what, yes that's one of the issues.. however, these engines *at this power level* have shown to be reasonably reliable. the car as a whole only has 5600 miles on it, so this engine was pretty new. I certainly suspect a rod failure based on the hole in the block by #1 crank boss, which is a known weak point on these engines. why the rod failed remains to be seen. could be oiling, could be over rev, could be one of many things. however, lots of people have boosted these engines and driven them tens of thousands of miles on track without blowing them up. I did something wrong to it, but I don't know what that was yet.
  14. I do not blame the S/C at all. I was pushing the piss out of it, and was holding 4th gear out on front straight so I didn't shift to 5th for 100 ft and back down to 3rd. I'm guessing boosted FA20 doesn't like the rev limiter. My guess is a rod came apart and then shrapnel ensued. It happened right when I lifted at braking zone at end of pit straight. The hole in the block seems to be the same spot that blows up on many of the "street" engine failures I see as well. (between A/C compressor and alternator on top of block) so I wouldn't be surprised one way or the other. but again I wouldn't blame the S/C at all. ...At least it blew the top of the engine apart and the oil pan was intact. It didn't leave a trail of oil on track that way and put anyone else in danger...
  15. Maybe I should blame Toyota for not performing the valve spring recall. seems to be what the forum bois do when they blow theirs apart.
  16. Well shoulda woulda coulda put something in the car before the last race. now it's going to have to wait. blew the engine apart Sunday at the race. not sure if it was just time, or if it was my driving. no gauges and no data to look back and see if there was a warning. 😕
  17. Insane.. wonder how many of them were new yorkers that crossed the border for a track day? 😉
  18. Thanks.. I thought about the MXL2 as well (there was one in this car already, but previous owner took it out to reduce the sell price and transfer to another car..). The D2P has GoPro 'integration' in it using one of the output relays, and then the software can merge video and data... not quite as slick as SmartyCam but similar. The GoPros are also an investment I already have vs. spending another $2000 on front and rear SmartyCam.. So I'm in this for $1000 instead of $4000 so far. that $3000 difference for the day 1 hardware allows me to buy lots of other add-on sensors and such.. I watched a little video on the software and setup, but I need to get back to work. the software looks WAY easier to review and manage data than the older Racepak G2X that's in my RX7 now.. I've placed with the AIM whateverwhatever version for the kids karting Mychron and it's pretty easy to follow. however, actually interpreting and using the data is what I need to spend some time with, and that's regardless of platform.
  19. His point was you're saying you're down cause you don't have a car to drive.. yet you also have the Vette and the TA2 car you could play with. boys and their toys..... 😉
  20. Have you done any checking to find the max pad temperature you're getting to? the higher the temp, the faster the wear on the pads. so if you're getting the pads too hot, they will wear quickly and obviously make lots of dust. I've run the DTCs on my cars for a long time, but usually stick with the DTC70 on the Nissan due to the higher temp capacity. They dust, but not awful- then again, it's wilwood Superlites on a 150hp car so it's not a ton of heat. Pads last >40hrs/set on that car. The RX7 can only get the DTC60 but needs better. it dusts like mad. inside of wheels are black and pour dust out after a race weekend. pads last about 4-6 hours/set.
  21. Please help a data moron! I need to buy a display+datalogger for the new car since the previous owner removed the MXL dash and I'm running a boosted car on stock gauge cluster (eek!!) I ran across a decent price on a NIB Dash2Pro. I'm curious what the opinions are on it vs. an AIM MXL2. The both have OBD-II and CAN interface, but I can't seem to find any indication if "all CAN works" or if only certain models are natively supported. based on how OBD-II and CAN standards work, I would *assume* that if it's capable of connecting to CAN bus, it should do it for all cars. Also looking to thoughts on user-friendly and etc compared to the AIM? I know the AIM stuff is pretty easy to use, but the price is up there for a full dash setup. Thanks!
  22. it's the thought that counts. 🙂
  23. Next 2 weekends May 23-24 and 30-31 are SCCA club race and Time Trials. June 6 is a RideSmart bike day. June calendar is busy as well, so the member-only weekends are drying up quickly.
  24. ^^^ My wife at the store.. can't keep anything alive in the zero nutrient clay we have, yet she keeps buying shit!
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