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About Matt93SE

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    The slow kind

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  1. I love the little orange hazard triangle on top of the car.. LIKE THEY'RE NOT GOING TO NOTICE A CAR UPSIDE DOWN IN THE MIDDLE OF THE COURSE! 😄
  2. Been a while since I pulled trans on a Miata, but I think I did just remove the PPF bolts at the front, driveshaft, then angle the PPF out of the way while we yanked the trans.. I recall having the same problem you did with the rear bolts not being happy. but that was a loong time and many beers ago.
  3. Tobey, yeah I'm aware of the price.. I need to buy another kart one for the kid since I'll have another racer come july. last time I looked, they were $400+ for one in good condition. hardwired ones are pushing $500.. insane. The point of positioning is that they use transponder as 'who got there first', not necessarily whos bumper crossed the finish line first. put it on the right front corner of a oval track car, and it's the first thing that crosses the finish line. moving it farther behind the ball joint and inside the frame rail reduces the incentive to fly across the line sideways.
  4. Nevermind. my wife is awesome enough that I talked her into a weekend roadtrip on mother's day to pick up toys for me.
  5. That's a huge bitch!! Congrats on the ride! very shiny! I dread the day my 7.3 Powerstroke needs to be replaced. it's ugly and slow, but it'll pull a house and is pretty damn reliable.
  6. On all my cars, it's been mounted in the wheel well. But I use the old school hard wired non-subscription ones. Install it and fuhgettaboutit! On the Nissan, I made a small aluminum debris shield and riveted it in place between the tire and transponder so it will deflect any crap headed its way. On the RX7, the transponder is exposed in the wheel well, and the surface is sandblasted from years of debris. still works, no issues. Since the new ones have to be removed to pay the tolls, (and charge battery?) you might want to mount it in a place more accessible. I'm so glad I don't have to worry about that part since I'd always forget the damn thing until it was time to leave and no time to charge it!!
  7. Looking at a set of wheels & tires on craigslist and seller is west side of san antonio. Wondering if someone might be headed to MSRH with room in a truck or trailer? would be happy to pay reasonable fee for your efforts.
  8. Mueller is/ was only a metal building supplier when I looked at them. they had a list of approved contractors who could assist with putting up the building. but for the interior construction for the house part, you would have to look elsewhere. that was the case a few years ago when I was looking at them at least. I have toyed with this same idea several times because our current house is a bit cramped with toys.. I wanted a bigger garage/ shop than we currently have, and my wife liked the idea of getting out of our 'hood and the ridiculous HOA and 'beating the Joneses' mentality.. but then Harvey hit and cost me a chunk of change and we've completely redone the house. will lose a bucket of money if we leave now, so it's not going to happen.
  9. More clarity required... is this for HPDE, TT, sanctioned racing? For sanctioned racing, each group has their own rules clearly spelled out in the rulebook, but *typically* the expiration date is as follows: SFI cert: expiration is 2 or 3 yrs from manufacture date tagged on belt OR FIA cert: end of 5th year after manufacture date (which is also tagged as FIA expiration date). i.e. if the belt is made jan 10, 2000, then the belt would expire Dec 31, 2005. some clubs vary slightly from that, but that's the jist of it. There is currently a huge battle with SFI trying to make people replace belts MORE often by putting an expiration date on belts only 2yrs after manufacture. SFI's position is that sanctioning body requires SFI cert for the belt to be allowed. SFI changed their tags so they show "certification expires [2ys after manufacture date] instead of previously only showing a manufacture date and allowing sanctioning bodies to determine their own expiration. As most sanctioning bodies allowed SFI belts for 3 years, this has resulted in a net reduction of use by another year. Also note, this change by SFI was done IMMEDIATELY after the SCCA made a rule change that said something like "SFI and FIA belts are good for 5 yrs from manufacture, or until cert expires, whichever is earlier".. If you haven't figured out, SFI really isn't in the business or promoting racing safety. SFI is in the business of selling expensive little tags that state "manufacturer certifies this device to be built and tested within accordance to SFI standard XX.XX". and if SFI can force manufactures and users to buy more tags, then they make more money. bad juju, IMO. so I personally avoid buying stuff with SFI certs if I can find an alternate with an allowed FIA cert.
  10. this is what I regret about my building. no natural light. I have tons of LED light in the building now... when I'm not in there it's hot, blackout dark, and with the ridonculous coastal humidity, any surface gets mold/mildew sitting in the shop. even raw plywood sheets leaning on the wall have a thin layer of white fuzz on them which I can only suspect is a mold of some sort. none of this was very bad before Harvey, but afterwards, EVERYTHING in the shop has this layer on it. and since it's impregnated into all of the porous surfaces, it will likely never go away. So part of my theory is that some natural light in there might help to warm the interior faster than cold, damp, dark.. so between that and actually having natural light in there, that might help reduce the growth rate of nasties...
  11. It's amazing how many times I hear that from many manufacturers.
  12. quick bullet points since I should be working... workshop/ clean room area can be enclosed single story. use "roof" of that for storage area. however, you must consider floor loading if you plan to store big stuff up there. grinding/welding area should be on opposite side of clean workshop for obvious reasons. you can segregate the fab area from rest of shop with welding curtains on rolling stands. the floor doesn't have to be perfectly level for scaling purposes.. it's handy, but I would still plan to use stands/ scale platform under the car so that you have access under the car to make adjustments. in most shops I've seen, the floor is marked for the stands at specific locations for specific cars. for instance, Louie's shop had markings on the floor for Miata, Mustang, and 370Z setup since he was working on those cars regularly. then it doesn't take him long to level the stands and get under the cars. pallet racks are cheap shelving options and you can go stupid high with them if you want-- you just need a way to access it! Maybe put a 20ft high shelf on the wall of the 'clean room' so you can access it from both ground level and the clean room roof.. POWER.. plenty of it! do you have access to 3 phase power feed? given your background, I figure you have that handled. 🙂 Ventilation-- consider multiple roll-up doors on opposite ends of the shop so you can get some air flowing through the shop. Also be sure to find a way to vent the upper area and remove the hot air vs. blowing it down into the work areas. The fencing around the property causes some wind breaks and reduces airflow, but still having a door in the back will do you some good. dehumidification-- at least down where I am, my tools are rusting in the toolbox because of the humidity and condensation in the garage when temperature changes. you might want to consider a large-area dehumidifier or air conditioner for the whole building. you wouldn't need to cool the whole thing to 68 deg in 100deg heat, but mainly to remove the humidity on those crazy spring/fall days when the temp swings and there's condensation forming on every solid surface. IM JEALOUS! I have the real estate at my place, but neither the time nor the funds (nor the approving wife) to build the shop I want...
  13. I was at MSRH a few years ago with another 4-letter sanctioning body.. they ran Sat one direction, Sunday the other. turns 2 and 17 had standing orders that if anyone came out "backwards", they were to immediately throw the red flag and get on the radio before someone died. Sure enough, a Miata came out backwards in the small bore group. I was just touching the first apex curb at 2 clockwise, so I saw him out of the corner of my eye and saw the corner worker 'explode in a flurry of red-flag-grabbing action'. I didn't see the flag, but I knew it was coming. I saw the Miata realize his mistake and do a textbook e-brake J-turn and return to pit lane before he ever left the cones in T1.. so crisis averted on track, but you CANNOT un-pull a Red flag... Because dude is in pit-in doing about 10mph and probably spinning his tires in his own excrement, I did not go straight to pit but proceeded down front straight.... I kept my eye on start stand, the starter was fumbling trying to un-roll a red stick. I see the guy at 17 reaching for it, and I figure that's as good a place as any to not get run over. so I pull off at 17 just in front of the gravel trap. Then I proceed to watch at least 10 cars go by. TWO CARS continued driving for multiple laps under a full course red flag. And these were people that had been racing for over a decade. They were escorted to black flag and given a stern talking to by stewards, but no further action taken. (Had I been in charge, those people would have lost their license.) so ummm yeah.. it seems that many folks have no clue about flag stations. Frankly, I think race groups should pull random red flags every few races to close out practice and possibly even qualifying sessions, just to keep drivers aware of what it means and what's required... go red until the field stops, then BFA and bring everyone in. anyone who doesn't stop correctly loses qualifying time so they start at the back. As long as you keep the stops short (this should take 15-20 seconds if done right), then you shouldn't overheat cars..
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