Solo_S14

iunno, but I'll PM you

Like this one? Feedback? Thrustmaster T300RS and 3x 24" decent gaming monitors. Cheers, https://gtrsimulator.com/product-category/stands/gta-f️-models/?utm_medium=_adwords&utm_campaign=&utm_source=&gclid=Cj0KCQiA0MD_BRCTARIsADXoopZv6Xm7kOObspJoeOXnjQo1u38T3prq-oOzJAhuGwGT8v9rNB4jHLoaAg8LEALw_wcB Edit - I've seen the thing where guys mount the monitor stand back at the wheel post location for my monitor size.

Agree, harnesses in any car without a cage - or at least (on the fence about this) a hoop and rear section - is scary. A few years ago, Targa NL (stupidly) introduced a "Fast Tour" division - which allowed participation in the road rally, without car safety prep requirements, for half the entry fee.... It was meant I'm sure to bring in "street / tuner cars" to bump revenue, and I know the guy in these pics. Luckily he escaped with just a separated shoulder when the roof drove his head into his co-drivers lap... Had they decided to run harnesses it would have been a bad scene:

Same smokin' deal we got it for, five hundo

We have one in the car that we've been thinking about parting with. Older style Miata Cage setup in an NA that doesn't give us as much tilt as we would like on the seat. Would have to double check size, but our team ranges from ~175-225lbs and about 5'9" - 6' maybe, and we all fit fine.

That's a good idea, hadn't considered that. @Dennis did even better, he let the rings rust-in a little bit, and picked up some hero compression / HP!

Good condition lift-out Sweet build your buddy just finished Box of parts What do you guys have?

Nice, thanks for the input man.

There is definitely an MSD RPM switch sitting on the top of my toolbox yup

We decided to do a headgasket on that 108whp/102tq engine before the ChampCar race at H2R in September. Cyl #2 was pushing water out the open rad cap (slightly) on a cold motor during a leakdown. Prior to the race, on a hero Amazon compression test gauge that reads higher than my other one, the compression looked like this: Pre Race - Cold / Dry Compression Cyl #1 - 155psi Cyl #2 - 150psi Cyl #3 - 165psi Cyl #4 - 170psi On the Saturday, we placed 3rd overall in A-class, behind two well sorted NB1 and NB2 VVT swapped Miatas (Josh is on here actually), with our best lap times in the 1:31's. Sunday, we had a mechanical in the morning - causing us to run the race in 4th gear only 😂. Pace dropped into the 1:35's.......but looks like that's because we had more than just transmission issues on the weekend: Post Race - Cold / Dry Compression Cyl #1 - 157psi Cyl #2 - 150psi Cyl #3 - 162psi Cyl #4 - 52psi (💀) Dropped a cap full of oil into each cylinder, and ran the CT in reverse order with a charger on the battery. Pretty well confirmed things: Post Race - Cold / WET Compression Cyl #1 - 195psi (+38psi) Cyl #2 - 202psi (+52psi) Cyl #3 - 210psi (+48psi) Cyl #4 - 130psi (+78psi) So, now we look for the "easy button": 1. Teardown our (2x) NA8 engines, hone, deck, refresh. Hope for ~115-120whp? 2. Go for an NB1 engine (fits rules), largely a "bolt-in affair" with an RPM switch? Go for ~125whp without too much fuss? 3. Pull up the boot straps, go for a MegaSquirt, pursue the VVT Glory, chase the cool kids, hope for ~135whp? Maybe have a down car for several months? What would TJ's do?

What, yer guyses track days don't all end like this?

👍👍👍

Yeah.....a buddy borrowed my compression tester, then eventually Amazon'd a new one to my house for convenience. ......it came with 15psi extra compression per cylinder! Cheapest engine refresh I've ever done 😂

Tried to respond to this, and ended up on Matt's profile somehow, which had a hot pink background. Anyway, my home setup is pretty close to what Matt described: I used to set up 4 jackstands longer than the wheel base, and square up accounting for the difference between front and rear trackwidth on the Miata @ the axle lines. So I'd set the strings at axle height, and square at the axle line. Stack tires to match driver weight as pictured and use a Longacre Camber Gauge (3-arm type) to measure Camber. Measure to each of the front and rear lips of the wheels for toe, then use an online alignment calculator to input measured wheel diameter (lip to lip), toe, thrust angle (or whatever the front to rear axle variation term is) etc. The Longacre gauge also does caster with something like 30-50deg sweep left and right from center while on the caster setting - which the turn plates with graduated angles on them are great for. What those turn plates were not great for was the rest of the alignment, on account of me not having ramps to roll on and off with, so I would ditch them / roll car back and forth / bounce on corners / lap around the subdivision between adjustments to get things right. Something like: - set caster once, ever - check ride heights and pressures and things before Alignment and adjust if necessary - usually I was playing with springs and wheel/tire setups / rubbing / etc - then Camber with the car just on the ground (not turn plates), then toe. The strings (instead of toe plates) work great to square the front to rear to chassis toe configuration, as long as you remember to set the steering wheel straight before getting started 😂 For my purposes it seemed to work great. If I had my time back, I would have used the turn plate money against scales to do corner weights - but that's another leap I haven't had the stomach for, yet.

Thanks man. There was a head kicking around somewhere along the way, but it had a valve seat broken out of the casting of the head so it was junked. The 108 was on the engine that came in my red car, unknown swap basically, stock intake, header, ecu. So the ~115whp limit sounds like the answer / bridge I was looking for, for a healthier stock motor without ECU and supporting bolt ons. This is a capture from a video since they never actually sent me the file, and we didn't really care just wanted a baseline: