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About joesurf79

  • Rank
    Total hack job

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Sugar Land TX
  • Track Vehicle
    Exquisitely Handcrafted Slowness

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  1. Pretty sure this replaceable wear piece on the SPEC aluminum flywheel got hot while the rivets of the worn out wear disk were boring into it...that's warped outta spec now right ;)? Jussssssttttt a bit outside...its normal heat range πŸ˜‰ ?
  2. Yeah I have seen those. I'll snag some - whether I go push-lock as the final solution or stick with the stainless braid, should help - "you gotta keep 'em sep-er-ated".
  3. I got my surge tank concept installed, and tested over a weekend of abuse - works great. I made some excessively long AN stainless braided overlay lines, with the intent of going back and trimming them and tidying up the installation. Fellow junkies warned me that the stainless lines in close proximity to one another would abrade the stainless, and eventually the rubber hose inside if unchecked, and I'd end up as a flambΓ©' (I am of French ancestry afterall ;). Inspecting quickly for how to make the install cleaner - I saw one spot where the stainless looked slightly abraded already - the line connections at the tank swung more than I thought they would, contact that wasn't anticipated happened, glad I caught it. That got me thinking - I defaulted to the braided line because that is what I had seen done before. But the stuff is stiff, hard to route around tighter corners, and the stainless braided overlay in reality is just there to be the pressure carrying element in the equation from what I gather? Now that I know that the stainless braided overlay is NOT to be trusted for ultimate abrasion protection, I started thinking - why not just use a rubber "push-lock" type hose? They're rated for plenty of pressure for this system (45 psi peak) more flexible, easier to assemble, can easily be slid into an abrasion / fire resistant sleeve that would provide equal protection from the "incidental" contact the stainless braided line provides, and can be had in ethanol resistant flavors... Is there any reason not to run a non-stainless braided line in this type of application? Other than the loss of "bling". Taking into account the need to isolate ANY line being used for fuel from repetitive abrasive motion, and keep them away from hot / moving parts, is there a driving reason to use / make / hassle with the braided AN lines in a low pressure application?
  4. I should have clarified - when I got there, everything was out of the way EXCEPT the PPF, and 4 bolts on the bell housing. So I was kinda setup for the 20 min transmission removal grand slam! Followed by the flywheel debauchle pitching a shutout in relief ;)
  5. Hat tip to Matt and Hornetball - swung the PFF outta the way, and trans was out in 20 mins πŸ™‚ That didnt change the fact that the clutch wear disk was so toast, that it's rivets had cut a ring in the flywheel lol...
  6. Thanks guys! Bud Light Lime next time I see ya...I always wondered who drank that stuff ;)
  7. Hey TrackJunkie Community at large! Long story short - a friend smoked their clutch at MSRH yesterday, and I'm in to help them swap it tonight. They got part way through disassembly, and are struggling with removing the rear set of PPF bolts. Apparently they thread into some threaded collars that are pressed into the PPF from the top? Anyway, one bolt came out fine, and the other is spinning in the PPF when trying to loosen the bolt. Pics online seem to show the threaded inserts having a tiny bit of knurling, but likely not enough to provide the grip needed to overcome the torque needed to break that 20 yo bolt loose...Anyone encounter this before (I kinda doubt they are the first person to encounter this) and if so - what's the hot ticket for getting that bolt free? Alternate question - is there enough play in the rear diff bushings for one person to "swing / influence" the PPF off to the side while the other slides the transmission back and out? Thanks in advance for any tips / tricks from the TJs at large!
  8. Yeah, I went through and hose-wrap-sandwiched them at all contact points, with zipties at each point for motion restraint. I am now wondering if rubber pushlock type hose with Pushlock to -AN fittings would have been a better choice. Put some abrasion resistant sleeving on it, then rubber sandwich them? This might be a good braided stainless line vs rubber pushlock type line discussion in tech talk. We're talking all low pressure here, the highest anything is seeing is 45 psi. I may need some schoolin' here...
  9. Surge tank FOR THE WIN! ALLZ THE WINS!! Was able to run the car at pace, all the way down to nothing. I intentionally went full tilt boogie for 2 laps after the gas light came on. Not a burble. Not a hiccup. No loss of power coming out of carousel (left hand continuous turns are what would cause the starvation below a half tank). Also- I lost one of my super sweet Texas flag endplates...not sure where, but after coming in from a session Saturday, someone noted that my car looked funny with only one of them ;) My "bargain deal" used carbon wing came to me with loose endplate threaded inserts which I had tried (in vain apparently) to re-epoxy down twice. Turns out, they could no longer contain the majesty of the lone star banner as it broke it's epoxy chains once again - flying free into the wild. My guess is carousel or coming into diamond's edge. It will be replaced with a Nine Lives aluminum job. The broken carbon wing had already been traded away to @clifton23 and his Champ car team for the promise of multiple future beers and a cheezy-burger. May it live again to help keep their MR2 planted ! Coolshirt also worked flawlessly. The decrease in fatigure is what amazed me - I don't think it was placebo effect. I am unsure how I did this through 2 Texas summers without one. Never again!
  10. joesurf79


    Just ordered a new trunk lid shell for 300 from Subaru. Easy button.
  11. Thanks for the tip! Inwas wondering about that already actually. I'll make some rubber sleeves tonight. I have a couple of sheets of rubber I can cut up and use that will suffice until i can find a permanent solution!
  12. All three surge tank lines now run through a grommet I made by hollowing out the plug that was in the hole to start with πŸ˜‰. The flow path is: the in-tank pump now fills the surge tank, and the surge tank pump now feeds the fuel rails. There is an overflow return line from the surge tank, that dumps back into the factory fuel basket. I replaced the In tank pump with an e85 compatible pump. After fixing a few minor fuel leaks, and setting the pressure regulator to the correct point - the car fired right up! bonus: Jake playing in his bouncy activity chair. Car looks like it's going to be ready for MSRH this weekend πŸ˜‰ We'll see if the thing runs with it's new fuel setup on track, and not just in the garage Haha! Life is good!
  13. 😬 yikes! Glad the finger wasnt severed! (by the look of the glove anyway). My hands and usually all cut up, but stitches worthy incidents are pretty rare. And most of the the bad ones have stopped with pressure and superglue Haha!
  14. joesurf79


    Helped a friend change a clutch in a BRZ which was up on quick jacks. They went high enough to maneuver under the car conveniently. For a car like mine with an unwieldy two Jack process to get it lifted from the central front Jack point, they would be even more handy!
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