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tyhackman15

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About tyhackman15

  • Rank
    Track Freak

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    ATX
  • Track Vehicle
    2007 2.5L NC Miata

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  1. Just as a data point, was out there Saturday after this (continued) monsoon weather. Dam turn still has running water, unfortunately. Granted it's very manageable, but no lap records. Front straight had some streaks from natural hill runoff, but didn't impact grip and dried up after an hour or so. Rest of the track remains dry.
  2. Honestly, your line doesn't look too bad. I think some fresh 200tw tires would find you a LOT of time. Your entry speeds are very low but it sounds like that's all the grip you have. That car has high 20s in it I bet. However, running those down to the wear bars and trying to best that 1:38 will only make you a better driver. I'm always a fan of not just throwing grip at a car.
  3. Here's the list of everything I purchased, that was specifically related to the swap. If you remove the performance parts that a normal enthusiast NC would already have, you're looking at about $1700 plus a tune (or $1500 if you keep the ford timing cover). Personally, you can't beat that for the performance gained. Part Number Part $4,394.58 YF09-11-303 Pilot Bearing - Mazda $4.00 LF01-11-406 Crankshaft Bolt - Mazda (x2) you only need one, but insurance.
  4. So now I'm slowly breaking in the clutch. About 120 miles down, around that to go. Doing some logging for the tuner, but even at part throttle the car feels amazing. It even sounds better with these cams. I can't wait to really wring it out and enjoy the extra ~25whp up top vs a stock 2.5. I think this swap is going to continue to gain traction, and I can't wait to see the 2.5L keep getting more and more parts. Should be making around 190-200whp, depending on who you ask. Can't beat a nice, reliable NA powerplant that is cheap as chips to replace. I'll be sure to post videos and more p
  5. You can finally see the light at the end of the tunnel. About $5k in parts later (most of which are performance bits you'd want on your 2.0 anyway, so this swap is actually dirt cheap if you have a bolt on 2.0 that died) and you're ready to assemble. Sexy 1.8" primary header covered up by a nice TDR blanket, Moroso metal coolant tank so it doesn't die again, CSF radiator because the OEM one is about as thick as your pinkie. Bolt it all up on the subframe, and slider her back under the car. Engine hoist to lower it all and check clearances every .0002 seconds and you're done lol. Then c
  6. Once that is done, strip both the motors and take a note to change your damn oil. The old 170k 2.0L was disgusting (and I found a cracked coolant tank, pour one out for another NC lost to something so simple). Swap over the 2.0 oil pan, pickup tube, and all accessories. Replace every gasket you touch with OEM mazda, it's cheap enough. New exedy stage 1 clutch, no need to go crazy. Photo of the cams are the new esslinger racing stage 2 sticks. Very excited for these. Timing this motor is insane, zero reference pins or anything, and diamond washers hold everything in place. Torque the
  7. When you're bored and a cheap NC with a blown 2.0 shows up in Dallas, you rent a trailer and get your ass up there. My red 07 with a 2.5L was getting lonely in the driveway, and all these shiny new cams that are supposed to transform the engine are too tempting, so why not do another. 2008 NC, grand touring, appearance package, 6 speed, LSD, white with the caramel whatever interior and a brand new top... $2100, yes please. Grabbed a 2.5L from a 2010 Fusion locally with 95k miles for $450. That's where the cheap ends. This is my first project to this degree, have done about everythi
  8. My '95 with the FM2 kit and no oil cooler will run under 220 coolant temps all day at Harris Hill. I tracked it there for a few years and the new owner has put a few thousand more track miles on it. Making 220whp, FM radiator and fans, vented hood, ducted front end but all stock openings. Edited because I see you have the FM radiator and a reroute. Your temps seem very high, I'd build some nice ducting out of coroplast or similar. Even just extending the undertray back on mine dropped temps a few degrees, it's wild. That's with AC and everything.
  9. Will do. Person is coming Saturday from Dallas. If it doesn't sell you're next!
  10. Selling my mint condition NC Miata removable hardtop. Comes with the factory plastics, side latches, defrost cable, and a storage cart. Asking $2k obo. Located in South Austin.
  11. Or even a turbo motor that makes power up top vs at 1500rpms. But yeah, NA would be nice.
  12. Having driven an M240i and M2 on track back to back, I can't say that the new breed of M cars are the same as the old ones. You still get a basic, turbo 6 that is numb and just makes torque everywhere. Same as the M235i, and every other M badged car. BMW needs to get back to the roots of proper M motors that excite you. I'm so sick of just blah flat torque curves on sports cars.
  13. Oh its super common for factory vehicles, but they don't really "cool" as much as they heat, as others have said. Using it to actually cool is what isn't common. Regardless, looking forward to results! Anything that lets you have longer sessions is a win
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