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cabowabo

Junkies
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About cabowabo

  • Rank
    TRACKJUNKIE

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    SacTown
  • Track Vehicle
    97 Miata

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  1. I have them on Miata and they were A+ street/track tires. Very good for shenanigans, fairly grippy and nice progressive slidey bois.
  2. Keeping it simple: Finish building racecar. Race said racecar.
  3. While the picture looks bad, I'd say the stock hoops did their job in that case keeping in mind you're in a 3 point belt so upper body is free to move around a bit. And also illiustrates that safety is a full system. Put harnesses in a car with those stock hoops and you're in bad shape. As soon as you start changing the system away from full OEM, you need to go all in on proper roll bar, seat, harness, etc. Personally, and I'm pretty throw caution to the wind kinda person, I don't much like the idea of tracking any OEM vehicle. After suddenly finding myself stationary in a racecar I appreciate being in a full cage with 6 point belts and hans. I did take the miata out a few more times with autopower bar since then, but I was certainly thinking about it a bit at places like PPIR coming around an oval at 100mph with a wall waiting on the outside...felt better off in LobsterVette going many fast.
  4. I got no money's for buying stuff to really move this project along just yet, so knocking out simple stuff. Got my seat reinstalled today, but need to redrill it and move it forward a bit. At current position/layback it's hitting the cage plus I'm reaching for clutch and 5th gear shifts anyways. So, gonna have to move that. Also went ahead and removed remaining A/C lines and some emissions equipment (EGR and charcoal canister). I'll probably go ahead and delete washer bottle and do a lazy wire tuck too because why not. Even if I had more turbo stuff to move along with it wouldn't QUITE be time to get moving anyways. Spending a lot of time thinking about mounting and where I'm going to route intake/oil lines. All I know is I'm gonna have to get soemthing to hold my trunk on because I'm totally removing the stock latch, cutting out the entire license plate area, and sending my exhaust out of it. Probably gonna make it shoot flames too ala McLaren GT3
  5. Time for party mode. This thing is tiny (T3 50 trim), 35lbs doggo for scale.
  6. Started working on the dash today and it's down to nothing but a hacked up skin. Going to have to get creative with getting it securely mounted along with the gauge pod. Will do some final trimming to clean it up then flock it because racecar. Think I'll move the ECU to top of trans tunnel under the now "floating" dash.
  7. And after just a few short weeks, she's home! This is a "ST4" cage from TC Design. Went with straight dash bar, x brace back, and cutout the OEM seat belt towers for some extra room. Need to do a lot of cleaning up wiring and mount the dash skin to the new dash bar as the oem dash bar can't go back in.
  8. I'll try and save some man ass for the rest of you.
  9. Can't blame the coilovers for the busy ride, turns out I had zero bump travel in the rear with an already engaged bumpstop. Brought the shock body down 15 turns and perch up 15 with the tire tucking nicely into the fender and only VERY slight rub as it passes by the mid point of compression. At full compression with no spring or bumpstop the wheel turns freely, no interference. Just need to roll the fender a little flatter and/or more camber for that mid point. I think there's even more room up there, but I called it good. Ride is 100% better just floating over imperfections. For $1200 I'm plenty satisfied now that I have them setup right. No pictures of the fronts as they're already good to go. At static compression there's similar travel remaining as rear and the bump stop is fully engaged just as it starts scrubbing the fender liner. I'll keep an eye on the driver side, but at present looks like it shouldn't rub through the liner and plastic casing protecting the harness. Pictures are rear at ride height pre / post adjustment and how far the wheel is allowed to tuck now.
  10. Welp, the only studs in the right length, knurl, and diameter / thread pattern were ARPs. Knocked the old ones out with a mini sledge, then zipped these on with impact and stud install tool (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000ETUD22?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image). The SC400 now has better wheel studs than the racecar. Makes sense.
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