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About HopGarage

  • Rank
    Track Freak
  • Birthday 03/23/1984

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  • Location
    Austin, TX
  • Track Vehicle
    1990 Honda Civic
  1. That's because on most cars that area where the hood meets the windshield is a high pressure zone. Hood extractors need to be further forward in a low pressure fast moving air zone.
  2. I just want a 2200lb tin can of a Honda with double wishbone suspension like the old days. Then we can stuff whatever we want in there without it feeling like a pig.
  3. Looking good, are you going to lap the intake valves on #4?
  4. I'll take another look tonight. When I pulled the plugs for the leakdown test they all looked normal.
  5. I actually bought all the parts to build a setup like this for my car, but haven't gotten around to it yet. I planned to just de-spring my current cap and use that nipple as a bleed off point for the system. Could you do the same?
  6. October 2018 - New engine, new problems When loading up the car for the track night at Harris Hill I noticed some smoke that went away. On my last session I was black flagged and they let me know the car was smoking quite a bit. (both idle and on throttle) Over the weekend I started messing with the car and I am pretty sure the issue has to do with coolant. After the engine warms some revs shoot quite a bit of water out of the exhaust. Even after 7-8 fan cycles I get a few spits of water. Though i have not really seen any signs that I'm losing coolant. I ran a leakdown test came back with a pretty healthy engine: Cyl 1: 3% Cyl 2: 1% Cyl 3: 0% Cyl 4: 1% With numbers like this, the only logical place that oil could smoke like this would be valve stem seals, but I replaced those when I swapped the valvetrain from my old engine. The turbo is also fairly new with only 4-5 track days and a few autocross on it. There are really only 2 ways for water to get into the combustion chamber on this engine. The intake manifold gasket (hoses run through here near cylinder 1) or the head gasket. I run a Hondata intake manifold gasket that was in good shape when I dropped the engine in, so I doubt that's it. I retorqued the nuts on the manifold to be sure. So as it looks now, I'll be pulling the head to inspect and taking this opportunity to install ARP head studs while I'm in there.
  7. I know it's still a pain in the butt, but do people bring backup rear knuckles? At least you would not have to worry about pressing in an out a new hub.
  8. If it fits I'd say it's worth it. Mine are on a 15x9. I moved from 205/50/15 on 7" wheels all around. I also have 225/45/15s on 9" to fit on the rear, but I'll need to do some fender cutting and flares before I can get those to fit. I was fairly surprised the 205 on the back with 245 on the front still felt pretty balanced at Harris Hill without any suspension changes. I was noticing I wasn't trail braking as deep and then getting on the throttle sooner.
  9. September 2018 - Fender rollin' I had a couple track days and autocross events coming up before I'd have time to finish out my new front end and I could not wait to try out the wider wheels and tires. A week before a track night at Harris hill I decided I would see what I could do to pull the front fenders far enough to clear. Since this would be a temporary solution I was not overly concerned with them being perfect, but once I got into it I couldn't help myself to make it look nice. I found a cheap fender roller for sale locally and broke out the heat gun. I took my time, working the fenders slowly to try and pull them as smoothly as possible. I was able to press out the outer edge enough to barely clear the new tires under compression, but in doing so it was nearly impossible to fend off the waves. I could have stopped there and just let it be for a temporary solution, but the more I looked at it, the more I would not have been happy with it. So I decided to rebuild the edge using as little bondo as possible while keeping it nice and smooth. Final job after a rattle can lacquer finish. I may still go back to wet sand and polish this to make it as shiny as the rest of the paint, but It will probably do fine for now. It's been about a year and a half since I've been to Harris Hill, the only changes from the last time are a fresh engine running about the same horsepower and 245 tires on the front. The whole afternoon I only had one lap without traffic, it was 25 degrees hotter and on that lap I was still able to beat my previous PB by a full second with a 1:28.2. 1:27s are easily attainable and 1:26s are very possible. Also worth noting that this time there were cones blocking off about a car and a half length at the apex of turn 2 due to some track surface issues.
  10. I have an extended shifter on mine, but it's a FWD linkage setup where both sides are longer and weighted so throws aren't really any longer than stock. I love it.
  11. That sucks, glad you and the car are ok. I have been running these Durago hubs for a while on my Civic and they have been holding up well. The ones for your miata look like a different, thinner casting with more brake disk holes to reduce the strength. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4785621&cc=1356229&jsn=499 The only down side to the ones for my Civic is the studs have larger knurl diameter than stock so I have to use studs for an evo rather than stock Honda when replacing them. Might be a similar situation for the Miata. EDIT: Nevermind The fronts are different. I'll kindly see my way out of the miata forum.
  12. I'll be out there as well! I am hoping the rain calms down by next Wednesday since I don't currently have any tires for standing water. It's not looking good though.
  13. It's been a while and I finally have something to post. Back in November of 2017 I ran a couple track days on the 3.1 at MSRC. About my third session in on the second day I had a coolant pipe blow off while exiting Tombstone. No harm done to the car itself but it looked like the head gasket gave way allowing boost into the coolant jacket. I knew the engine was tired already so it was finally time to replace it. Unfortunately for the car I had a few other projects that would need to take precedence before summer. Various things around the house and we purchased my wife's grandpa's 1974 pontoon boat that needed quite a bit of work to be lake ready. June 2018 - Engine Replacement Since I've already worked most of the bugs out of my current engine setup and it would be the cheapest route I figured I'd stick to the same engine. K20/24 power would be nice, but that would require too many changes. I bought my previous engine from Hmotorsonline.com back in 2002 and when I called them up they had just received another b16a1. While the engine is pretty low mileage for it's age it came from an automatic Integra. So it likely was less abused, but the automatic B16s only revved to 7200. They had weaker cams and single valve springs on the intake side. The cams from my old engine were still in good shape so I swapped them over along with the dual valve springs and replaced all the valve stem seals while I was in there. Prepped the new pan with with some baffling All done and ready for a fresh tune. Once we started to get into pulls under boost we had some issues with my PWM boost by gear controller. The 7psi spring in the wastegate wasn't going to get me to the HP I wanted so we had to fashion a ghetto controller on the wastegate vaccum hose to reach the 10psi mark I wanted. Once I got home I installed a 10psi spring in the wastegate. Final verdict was 305hp/206tq @ 10psi August 2018 - Going wide I've been looking into wider wheels and tires for a while. Due to unfortunate circumstances many here are aware of, a good deal for a full set of wheels and tires for a FWD setup became available. Thanks @edison_GTI, may the spirit of Kermit live on in my Civic. I'm set for a while on tires, but now I need to make them fit. 205's on 15x7 wheels is about as large as I can go on the stock fenders. The new wheels are 15x9 with 245 front and 225 rear. New 245s vs current 205s The new wheels require 15mm spacers so I prepped my spare knuckles with extended studs, new bearing and hubs. I'll need quite a bit more fender to cover these tires. Rather than do universal overfender flares I am going to build complete custom front fenders and a front bumper to match. There are a couple companies that make 3 piece front ends for civic/crx's but they aren't exactly what I want and most have a 3-4 month wait to get them. This will be the largest fiberglass project I've undertaken yet, but I plan to make molds this time so i can make duplicates to sell in the future.
  14. I have had my doubts about Mishimoto radiators in the past, but both look like nice well built kits assuming the it uses a good core. If you were looking to build a custom kit the bar/plate core alone for that size would run $450-$600 for a proven brand.
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