Jump to content

If you are having trouble logging in, please try¬†resetting your password. The email you get will include your "Display Name" ("Hi, Display Name") which is what you should use to log in with. If that doesn't work, email me: [email protected]


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About HispanicPanic

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Location
    san antonio
  • Track Vehicle
    2010 Evo X
  1. If someone makes a hollow sway bar that is an 'upgrade' over OEM, i'd highly reccomend it. Even with the increased roll stifness of coilovers, wheel deflection will be greatly reduced, which means the amount a swaybar contributes to roll stiffness is decreased. Hotchkiss makes good products on all platforms i've had the pleasure of driving them on. At least on my application, they are very large, but hollow. Lighter than OEM swaybars and on the lowest setting provide a solid increment of greater stiffness. At the highest setting, they rival the stiffest swaybars made for my application. I'll be honest, the difference between having my front sway connected and disconnected (on lowest setting) doesn't increase front grip at all. But it is more responsive with it connected. I also run very stiff springs and wheel deflection is small. Having an OEM bar wouldn't benefit me at all as it wouldn't increase grip, it would have slower response, and it would be heavier. My hotchkiss is 32mm hollow and the OEM bars were 24mm solid. Lots of good application specific advise here, just thought i'd highlight the reduced wheel deflection and swaybar contribution by having stiffer springs :)
  2. +1, an insurance company doesn't care how much your car is worth on the marketplace, even if you can show them listings of the car in identical condition going for 2x of what their 'book value' is. Their argument is a listing price isn't the same as a selling price. They will take every opportunity to fuck you. I do consulting work for a lot of different insurance carriers and this is pretty standard across the board. USAA is the only exception i know of, but my work is on the property side of things, not auto. That said, insurance carriers tend to cower if you hire a lawyer. So, there's always that option. Just make sure the argument and path forward presents a path of greater resistance. Then they'll cave no matter what.
  3. Bunch of old dudes shaking a stick in this thread. I'm surprised Terry even tried to be nice.
  4. Thx, I'll just go for the yellow Teflon. I assume it's safe for ethanol blends too?
  5. I had an incident with a 911 getting distance on the straights but i'd be right up his ass in the corners. Decided i'd get W2W level close to him and get a good exit on ricochet so that i could pass him heading into little bend. The dude decided to give me a point by ON CORNER EXIT and let off the throttle while on racing line. Needless to say, i had zero options on either going to his inside (outside was grass), or even slowing down in time. Smashed the brakes and went off track sideways. I guess my point is, its not always bmw's and vettes!
  6. Tee'ing off the 5/16 SAE quick disconnects on the OEM fuel lines. The fitting i bought has NPT, was just wondering if anyone knows of any good thread sealant that won't break down over time. I've heard mixed things about yellow teflon tape (that its made for gas gas, not gasoline). I've also heard mixed things about blue loctite.
  7. I find it interesting that the only people i ever hear go on about 'heritage' are some backwards ass americans. Literally no one gives a shit except them. I applaud the changes, motor displacement and all.
  8. [emoji1787][emoji23][emoji1787][emoji23] I fucking love that show
  9. Never even thought about that. I'll have to measure level in the garage this weekend to see if anything's changed over the past 4 years.
  10. Exactly! And then rechecking everything after you have it all set up to verify. It's easy to get confused with all the different measurements and adjustments happening. The good news is that you put in the work once, make your solid blocks with vinyl tiles for each corner, mark your squares on the garage floor for repeatability, and all your future alignments are simplified and extremely accurate. Just one note, I noticed that using sand between the tiles there was still a little bit of friction. Not a big deal for measuring caster, but difficult for toe changes. With small toe adjustments on the arm, nothing would show up on the strings. Using petroleum jelly seemed to alleviate this issue. Motor oil works too but it doesn't last in between alignments. It tends to Gunk up and you're back to the same issue as before. Probably not a big deal if you're aligning a Miata, but my car is heavy as hell.... 1050 lbs over each front wheel. Also, I know it doesn't really matter anymore, but the paved garages at Texas World speedway have a pretty flat floor. I was really impressed, flat enough to make some reliable changes on the fly if need be. More level than my own garage.
  11. 2x vinyl tiles and petroleum jelly in between. I also measure the floor for levelness and have used sticky vinyl tiles to make the locations at all 4 wheels perfectly level. Each wheel has its own block made of vinyl tiles sticked together to raise each corner to level. My camber measurement is a solid .4 degrees off if the car isn't level in my garage.... and to the eye, its visibly flat. Skip to ~ 5 min
  12. Oh hey TerraVista! Yeah your post influenced me to go this route instead of a surge tank! My lean spot is an odd one.... It has actually been there for a while and my previous tuner had to tune around it. I've taken apart the rear fuel system a billion times and everything looks good there.... I'm now thinking it might be a weird blockage in the fuel rail. The original motor melted a piston cause i wasn't paying attention to my engine temp at MSRC in late July. Oops. Got a used engine delivered on a crate and the problem i think has been there ever since in various different ways. Started off as some knock with spirited daily driving, backed off the timing seemed to fix it. Went and got a retune and for some reason the injectors were hitting max duty cycle at 5.5k rpm and going lean. Replaced injectors with ID1000's and now i have a 4k lean spot. Fuel system is as follows: ID1000 injectors, stock fuel rail, stock fuel lines, stock FPR, Walbro 255, hydramat setup as described above, Radium siphon kit.
  13. These are the only pictures i can find on my computer right now... i've got more stashed on another device somewhere. Pic below shows the adapter on the walbro 255 pump to convert the inlet to a barb. The little magnet fastners are great.
  14. Someone forwarded this thread to me and asked i respond. I have a hydramat in my Evo. Tuned to full-tilt with bolt ons and a stock turbo on 93. At the end of a normal session, i'd fuel starve on most tracks. I'd usually no-throttle through the offending turns last 2 laps of the session. Had to get creative with some plumbing and modify the fuel return system so that it dumps fuel ONTO the hydramat instead of inside my normal fuel pump hangar. I've got pics somewhere of my install, i'll have to find them. but i cut a large hole in my fuel pump hangar to route hoses from the hydramat to my walbro 255. I'm using a Radium Siphon kit and bypassing the OEM one as its built into the fuel pump hangar. The OEM siphon system uses a venturi on the fuel return to literally pull fuel from the right side of the tank. The siphon kit comes with a handfull of orifice sizes that you'll need to experiment with to make sure that your Fuel pressure is as normal as possible (unless you've got an adjustible FPR). For you turbo folk, this means a tune check as you'll probably be off a few PSI which will affect your trims slightly. Theoretically, a smaller orifice will increase the velocity of the flow, which will pull more fuel from the right side of the tank, but from dicking around it doesn't seem to make an appreciable difference (i still starve on the same turns at the same fuel level). So i recommend using the orifice that will require the least amount of fucking-about with your fuel trims. For those pushing 600+ hp, be wary. Reports in the evo community show that there are fueling issues brought about by the 1/2 inch fitting on the mats. It is suspected that the 1/2 fitting is limiting fuel flow which can't support large power on these boosted 2 liters. Not sure if they make a 5/8 fitting mat yet in a large enough size. Also, i had to use a 90 degree elbow coming out the mat to clear the pump hangar, which converts the NPT fitting on the map to the barb required for the rest of the fuel system. I also had to use a Radium fuel pump adapter kit to convert the Walbro fuel inlet into a Barb so i can connect to the hydramat, as the mat is now your fuel filter. Overall, the mat does exactly what it's supposed to. I'm having a weird fuel anomaly but i think its unrelated to the mat (weird lean spot at 4k RPM that i'm tuning around). I still Fuel starve if my fuel gets around 5/8 tank, but it buys me enough time to get through a session now. I'd usually use 4+ gallons per session as long as there's no traffic, which puts me at 3/4 tank at the end. Next step is to add a 2nd mat on the right side of the tank with a low pressure in-tank pump. This would solve the problem 100% as long as the flow of the 2nd pump can outflow the main fuel pump. Need to figure out the best way to wire said pump. Then i can run the tank down to 1/4 without starving (i hope). Other notes: turns out my tank (its metal) is magnetic enough for the magnets that come with the mat. They're really strong and will survive any kind of forced slosh without movement. I also purchased the magnets for use with a plastic tank just in case. Those things are so damn strong that if they touch, you're NOT getting them apart. Seriously, i haven't been able to get them apart. So, they're definitely strong enough if you have a plastic tank and you're worried about it. Parts used: https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/hydramat/hydramats/parts/16-106 https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/hydramat/hydramat_install_kits/parts/16-204 https://www.highflowfuel.com/c-1208322-fuel-hose-clamps-corrugated-flex-hose-by-dimension.html http://www.radiumauto.com/Venturi-Jet-Pump-Kit-P760.aspx https://frsport.com/radium-20-0145-fuel-pump-inlet-adapter-kit?gclid=CjwKCAiA8rnfBRB3EiwAhrhBGuZnZTPL8l5qRdb1sME5miMz1Zeue62i-0At-rxQgnsCASLjyMPRZhoCROcQAvD_BwE A handfull of hose clamps to secure hoses on barbs And a handfull of zipties to secure all the hoses where they need to be :)
  15. Spherical bushing kit for the radius rods on any 88-91 civic/crx. Also fits DA integras. Purchased and ended up not using it. $200 shipped. http://kingpinmachine.com/store/products/ef-civicda-integra-front-radius-rod-bearings/
  • Create New...