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HispanicPanic

Junkies
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About HispanicPanic

  • Rank
    TRACKJUNKIE

Profile Information

  • Location
    san antonio
  • Track Vehicle
    2010 Evo X

Recent Profile Visitors

5767 profile views
  1. I saw that! And i would have signed up if it weren't for a friends birthday shindig in Fredricksberg on the 14th. Heading back to San Francisco for work afterwords but i'm currently scheduled for laguna seca on the 20th. I miss TX tracks. MSRH especially. Thank you for the tips everyone!
  2. Website doesn't mention bilstein, so i suspect it may not be something they can do. Can't seem to get ahold of these guys though. I'll keep trying.
  3. Anyone familiar with a company, preferably a speed shop, that can custom re-valve bilsteins? TX would be ideal to avoid shipping. THX :)
  4. If someone makes a hollow sway bar that is an 'upgrade' over OEM, i'd highly reccomend it. Even with the increased roll stifness of coilovers, wheel deflection will be greatly reduced, which means the amount a swaybar contributes to roll stiffness is decreased. Hotchkiss makes good products on all platforms i've had the pleasure of driving them on. At least on my application, they are very large, but hollow. Lighter than OEM swaybars and on the lowest setting provide a solid increment of greater stiffness. At the highest setting, they rival the stiffest swaybars made for my application. I'll be honest, the difference between having my front sway connected and disconnected (on lowest setting) doesn't increase front grip at all. But it is more responsive with it connected. I also run very stiff springs and wheel deflection is small. Having an OEM bar wouldn't benefit me at all as it wouldn't increase grip, it would have slower response, and it would be heavier. My hotchkiss is 32mm hollow and the OEM bars were 24mm solid. Lots of good application specific advise here, just thought i'd highlight the reduced wheel deflection and swaybar contribution by having stiffer springs :)
  5. +1, an insurance company doesn't care how much your car is worth on the marketplace, even if you can show them listings of the car in identical condition going for 2x of what their 'book value' is. Their argument is a listing price isn't the same as a selling price. They will take every opportunity to fuck you. I do consulting work for a lot of different insurance carriers and this is pretty standard across the board. USAA is the only exception i know of, but my work is on the property side of things, not auto. That said, insurance carriers tend to cower if you hire a lawyer. So, there's always that option. Just make sure the argument and path forward presents a path of greater resistance. Then they'll cave no matter what.
  6. Bunch of old dudes shaking a stick in this thread. I'm surprised Terry even tried to be nice.
  7. Thx, I'll just go for the yellow Teflon. I assume it's safe for ethanol blends too?
  8. I had an incident with a 911 getting distance on the straights but i'd be right up his ass in the corners. Decided i'd get W2W level close to him and get a good exit on ricochet so that i could pass him heading into little bend. The dude decided to give me a point by ON CORNER EXIT and let off the throttle while on racing line. Needless to say, i had zero options on either going to his inside (outside was grass), or even slowing down in time. Smashed the brakes and went off track sideways. I guess my point is, its not always bmw's and vettes!
  9. Tee'ing off the 5/16 SAE quick disconnects on the OEM fuel lines. The fitting i bought has NPT, was just wondering if anyone knows of any good thread sealant that won't break down over time. I've heard mixed things about yellow teflon tape (that its made for gas gas, not gasoline). I've also heard mixed things about blue loctite.
  10. I find it interesting that the only people i ever hear go on about 'heritage' are some backwards ass americans. Literally no one gives a shit except them. I applaud the changes, motor displacement and all.
  11. [emoji1787][emoji23][emoji1787][emoji23] I fucking love that show
  12. Never even thought about that. I'll have to measure level in the garage this weekend to see if anything's changed over the past 4 years.
  13. Exactly! And then rechecking everything after you have it all set up to verify. It's easy to get confused with all the different measurements and adjustments happening. The good news is that you put in the work once, make your solid blocks with vinyl tiles for each corner, mark your squares on the garage floor for repeatability, and all your future alignments are simplified and extremely accurate. Just one note, I noticed that using sand between the tiles there was still a little bit of friction. Not a big deal for measuring caster, but difficult for toe changes. With small toe adjustments on the arm, nothing would show up on the strings. Using petroleum jelly seemed to alleviate this issue. Motor oil works too but it doesn't last in between alignments. It tends to Gunk up and you're back to the same issue as before. Probably not a big deal if you're aligning a Miata, but my car is heavy as hell.... 1050 lbs over each front wheel. Also, I know it doesn't really matter anymore, but the paved garages at Texas World speedway have a pretty flat floor. I was really impressed, flat enough to make some reliable changes on the fly if need be. More level than my own garage.
  14. 2x vinyl tiles and petroleum jelly in between. I also measure the floor for levelness and have used sticky vinyl tiles to make the locations at all 4 wheels perfectly level. Each wheel has its own block made of vinyl tiles sticked together to raise each corner to level. My camber measurement is a solid .4 degrees off if the car isn't level in my garage.... and to the eye, its visibly flat. Skip to ~ 5 min
  15. Oh hey TerraVista! Yeah your post influenced me to go this route instead of a surge tank! My lean spot is an odd one.... It has actually been there for a while and my previous tuner had to tune around it. I've taken apart the rear fuel system a billion times and everything looks good there.... I'm now thinking it might be a weird blockage in the fuel rail. The original motor melted a piston cause i wasn't paying attention to my engine temp at MSRC in late July. Oops. Got a used engine delivered on a crate and the problem i think has been there ever since in various different ways. Started off as some knock with spirited daily driving, backed off the timing seemed to fix it. Went and got a retune and for some reason the injectors were hitting max duty cycle at 5.5k rpm and going lean. Replaced injectors with ID1000's and now i have a 4k lean spot. Fuel system is as follows: ID1000 injectors, stock fuel rail, stock fuel lines, stock FPR, Walbro 255, hydramat setup as described above, Radium siphon kit.
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