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Shuka

Junkies
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Everything posted by Shuka

  1. Shuka

    1992 K24 Swapped Miata

    I have it now. I have been working on my ST5 build so I've been neglecting it. I'm not going to make it a track rat - in fact, we're planning on making it a street machine - complete with air conditioning!
  2. The hub stands are great! But a little sketchy to use on scales (no good way to drop them on the pads short of having a lift.) They also don't like textured epoxy garage floors. For the locking eccentrics, you need to work them with the alignment as you do it. I would definitely not try to get everything set up then put the locking ones on, since it will just pop out of alignment when you do. It's kind of a struggle sometimes since you don't have both eccentrics working for you to adjust the arms into position. I found sometimes I have to use a small pry bar or beam clamp between the control arm and subframe to move the alignment bolt into position and get the locking eccentric on. I end up setting the locking eccentric at a position, installing it, checking alignment, try the next position, and repeat until it's where I want it or close. It can be a pretty good fight if there's a lot of stress on the bushing from the other eccentric. Because you only have so many teeth on the locking eccentrics you can't get it quite *perfect* so expect a compromise, especially in the rear. However, to me it's better to have a 0.25* difference in camber between wheels than a bolt squirming out of position during a track weekend. BTW I highly recommend the Paco rear upper arms, provided you can run them in whatever class you're targeting. You can adjust camber independently on the rear wheels instead of chasing it as a function of toe and thrust angle.
  3. Provisional racing driver! Good job though, you were haulin'
  4. The first race weekend at TMS was a pretty great success! Since there were no ST5 competitors, I pulled the ballast and ran ST4, and managed a 2nd place finish. I ran across the scales 3 or 4 times, and wrote down each pass to get my data right. Right off the bat my calculated weight was pretty far off what the NASA scales read - I was 40 lbs heavier than I expected so I pulled more ballast to run in trim in TT5. I also know now that without any ballast on an empty tank, my race weight is right at 2300 lbs per NASA scales. One mission in the near future is to put the car on my scales and see how they match with NASA's, since the car as it sits ran across the scales at 2316 right before I put it on the trailer. I had a few small issues: -Cool shirt cooler is coming apart at the seams (literally) and splashing me with water on track -Squeaking pulley -Steering is drifting, like it did at Hallett a while back. I suspect the bolts are a tiny bit loose. I want to make a better fix for this one. ...but that's it! The car ran well, no leaks, didn't overheat in the 100 degree heat! Handling needs more adjustment for sure - the car handles great with Maxxis tires but not so much with more grippy Hoosiers (pushes.)
  5. Yep. That's it basically the whole story. The track said the loop worked, but when NASA showed up it did not. After testing the loop on Friday, Will had some equipment overnighted to get it working mid-Saturday, but after spending a few hours trying they had to give up and get cars back on track. In the last HPDE session a car went off after getting loose through the high speed kink and went into the fence, nearly hitting one of the lights. The track shut down the short course for the weekend after that. The race groups using the roval didn't have that section and thus were allowed to run the next day. I ran ST4 on Sunday and got 2nd place - the roval is an absolute blast to race on. Super super fun to have that dynamic of full throttle around banking and tiny mistakes causing huge gaps on the oval. I cannot stress enough my biggest takeaway from the weekend: TMS is a really fun and challenging track, both the roval and the short course are extremely fun! I will be going back to drive it again, doubly so if it isn't in the middle of August next time. Also congrats to @lobster on his first successful W2W race and 1st place finish in his rookie debut!
  6. One of the two main reasons (the other is to hopefully bounce up and cause less damage in an off-track-excursion) for all the added complexity of an articulating undertray/air dam: Loading the trailer is super easy! I've done the "remove the front end to load the trailer" dance before. Compared to that, this is just luxurious.
  7. I can only speak to the K20A swap setup - but it's very much plug and play. You get an OEM harness from a specific model, and an OEM ecu with Kpro or Ktuner installed. Harness plugs into ECU. The K-miata wiring adapter set bridges the gap; it plugs to the remaining connector and gives you wires to connect to the key switch, fuel pump, fans, etc. It's very much straightforward.
  8. Some last minute additions before this weekend's event: I vinyl wrapped and re-aligned my aluminum headlight doors, applied spots to naked portions, got my class letters and numbers put on, and added a mouth!
  9. Add wiring harness and ECU, AFPR, yeah. It's a pretty comprehensive kit. Give me a few events with the Ecotec, but I already miss that 7800 RPM redline and happy bouncy Honda rev-limiter. Do it over again? I would have probably kept the ST3 K24A2 build as-is! Given a choice between the ecotec swap and K24Z? The honda, for sure.
  10. @V6Donut I know you have to pay for RV with power, but can we park in that area (without power) to be near our homies? There are like 100 RV spots and like 8 people signed up for it. Otherwise we'll be on the other side of the world from them.
  11. I will also say the Ecotec swap using the kit is not well proven or continuously improved like Kmiata's stuff. I'm looking at building my own Ecotec motor mounts with proper bushings, and I'm not super happy with the design of the oil pan or adapter plate either. The lead time for ecotec parts is also abysmal, whereas Kmiata is very honest and responsive as to what's in stock and when things are shipping.
  12. Having been a KMiata early adopter and gone through the full K24A2 swap, I'll say the new K24Z swap setup looks AWESOME. Their later K20A series stuff corrected most of the early issues and is pretty dang good quality. Something I'll consider instead of another ecotec... It's not obvious, but this setup solves a lot of the pain, cost, and challenge of the earlier K series and other KMiata swap solution. -does not require an aftermaket header (cheaper!) -does not require a tubular or modified subframe and/or NB steering rack swap (cheaper and you can run in ST4!) -uses a factory accessory belt tensioner setup. -incorporates an internal clutch slave cylinder/hydraulic bearing (eliminates exhaust clearance issues) -OEM GM motor mount hardware with their adapters You will still need: -Kmiata flyhweel, adapter plate, engine mounts, intake manifold, downpipe, oil pan/pump, timing cover, coolant adapter block -Cable operate throttle body -Fuel solution -Clutch -Engine management - but sounds like you can use Kpro etc for an earlier generation with the timing cover incorporating the K20A style crank sensor
  13. Thanks for the info! These things seem really ideal for what we do; I'm super interested to see how they evolve (and if the price comes down!!) Do you know if their own shirt is much different than Momo, FAST or CoolShirt? It seems like you could just grab one of those and run the cooler...
  14. Lots and lots of work but very little to show for it in the big push to get ready for the first competition event. I installed the oil bypass setup, which replaces the stock in-block filter and cover with a billet piece, and plumbed in oil coolers, a remote filter, and the accusump. Due to space constraints I used two small power steering stacked plate coolers. I didn't want to choke throughput so they're plumbed in parallel rather than series. The result is a LOT of fittings and hoses. It's a tight fit in there! I spent Sunday doing a full setup on the car. Adding weight changed everything and cross weight was at like 46%, so I started with ride height and went from there. I also found out my digital angle gauge was lying, so I had 4+ degrees of camber on all wheels! I just started from scratch on alignment. The Paco hub stands and quickjack made it much easier to set up thrust angle, so not a single adjustment on the car went un-changed during this setup. With all of the 250 lbs of ballast in the car I was overweight, so I pulled 110 lbs of ballast out to hit 2400 lbs. Between wheel and tire combos, cool shirt, ballast, etc, all the variables get tough to keep up with so I use a Google Docs spreadsheet to keep track of what the car should weigh at a given moment. To run Hoosier I'll need to put 70 lbs back in, so between that and the 20-30 lbs of optional things (passenger seat, cool shirt cooler) I got pretty close with the ballast weight! I buttoned it all up and did a test run. One of the hoses had a damaged fitting and leaked oil everywhere, but I got it fixed up. Everything seems to be doing what it's supposed to! I'm pretty happy with the catch tank fitment so now I'm trying to come up with other excuses to build things out of aluminum....
  15. Is anyone else planning to stay at the track? I'll be there Thursday night!
  16. It would be interesting, but it would limit how you hold the torch. I'd try it! Though I question any website that's done with Comic Sans. The AHP comes with a finger switch you can zip tie onto the torch, but it's a clicky switch. You can set up the parameters with the dials and it will put out constant after that when you click the button. It will have different behavior depending if you select 2T or 4T. I should try it... tacking an exhaust under a car on jack stands is an interesting experience when you're working a foot pedal.
  17. Come on. Let's use real numbers and not gut feelings or anecdotes about other peoples anecdotes. A car alternator is about 50% efficient (usually a little higher, but this makes for a nice number to work with.) With a 30A continuous draw at 13.0V, you're looking at a power draw of 390 W. Since the alternator is 50% efficient, you're looking at 0.78 kW of mechanical power to run the 30A cooler, which is 1.05 horsepower. So yeah, running a Chillout Systems cooler at full blast costs about one horsepower. In Spec Miata that's a huge hit for sure, and a 1 horse draw with no idle speed compensation will cause idle issues. The other stuff about total alternator capacity and being "rough" on it and such is BS. An NA Miata from the factory has some big continuous loads like the heater blower, defroster grid, headlights, Bose stereo and so on. Running a 30A load for the chiller with the other base race car functions isn't going to "max out" the OEM alternator. So really it comes down to what it's worth to you. I know it's appealing to me to never worry about filling the cool shirt cooler, or rationing my ice, and if we go the endurance route it's a no-brainer! No more bailing water and adding ice during pit stops, no managing the ice during a 2 hour stint. For sprint racing low horsepower cars? It's probably not worth the performance ding and the cost of equipment.
  18. I was charged for an 18-wheeler's worth of tolls, because the VW I traded in with the diesel recall was on the very back of the big car hauler and their scanner saw my plate but not the truck's. They absolutely refused to cancel or reverse it. Even though it should be common sense, they refused to flex on it. So yes, absolutely cover the plate.
  19. Have fun! I recommend buying a better foot pedal for it. You might also check Home Depot's out the door price compared to AHP's + shipping.
  20. Yep, my car is full of shoddy steam bombs and giant lawn mower blades attached with duct tape. 🙄 I'll stick with engineering math over your gut feelings on this one. Four 1/2" grade 8 bolts through the stack, with the exception of the 8 pound half plate on top which just has two bolts. I basically copied East Street's design, used in a bazillion Spec Miatas, but mounted the plates forward of the seat to welded tubes instead of to the spot welded seat mount.
  21. A bit more progress over the weekend! I drained coolant and oil and took all the hoses off to install the filter bypass adapter and plumb in the accusump, remote filters, and cooler. The filter I ran for two days collapsed - a web search for "ecotec collapsed filter" showed me it's not uncommon for crappy Ecotec oil filters... The bypass adapter replaces this filter completely, so I'll be running a remote oil filter setup from now on. But jeez, that's not good! At the shakedown, I was frustrated by the bolted flange from the header. The gasket came apart twice, and the hardware kept backing out. I got out the band saw and TIG welder, and replaced it with a V-Band. My ballast plates came in at Metal Supermarkets, so I stuck them on the scale to verify I'm compliant with NASA's 250 lb ballast maximum. I knew I'd be around 260 lbs and would need to cut the top plate to get it exact. I welded some thick rectangular steel tube to the floor pan, with captive nuts so I can bolt the plates from the top. The holes were pre-punched at 1/2" using a jig, but their setup was a tiny bit inconsistent between each plate. I had to go back and drill out all the holes with a tiny bit bigger bit. Once I did, the hardware passed through and ballast was done. With removable ballast limited to 250 lbs, I had to find a few other places to add weight to the car. I built new, stronger mounts for driver and passenger seats, and installed the passenger seat and harness. A brave passenger could definitely ride with the ballast plates installed; with the seat angle it's actually more comfortable and easy to get in and out with the extra 5" on top of the floor pan! It's a pretty hefty stack of steel... Since I was bitten with the fabrication bug, I decided to build a catch can out of aluminum chunks I had laying around. With the way everything is situated there are not many places to mount an off-the-shelf tank with a full liter of capacity, so I built my own! I started with a 4x4x0.125 square tube that the metal place "sponsored" me, and some old 0.125 plate I had on the scrap shelf. My aluminum welding skills have definitely improved, but a trained eye can see a few oops-I-dipped-the-tungsten dark spots. Still, I'm super happy with the end result. I have new tubing on order to replace the old blue scrap, but heck, it looks like something I bought! I'll attach a barb/clear hose on the valve at the bottom to drain the tank, and maybe eventually install an external level gauge, but it will work! There's still a lot to do with oil hose plumbing, suspension setup, and detail work, but the car is essentially NASA ST5 legal and ready to race!
  22. The problem with "really thick tubing" is getting a good weld on it. I'm pretty sure I'll be able to make weight without resorting to drastic measures.
  23. I could add to the cage, but I'd prefer not to. Ideally I want to keep everything removable so I can run ST4 if ST5 sucks.
  24. Operation: Weight Gain is a go! I know there is a beautiful commercially available ballast setup for Miatas, which bolts steel plates to the OEM passenger seat mounts. However, I still want to put a passenger seat there. So I guess I'll build my own! Off to Metal Supermarkets to get some 1/4" plates cut and punched. Punching is well worth it so I don't have to drill 52 holes through 1/4" plate! Using 10.2 lbs/sqft for 1/4" steel plate, each one should be about 20 pounds. 12 full plates plus a 13th partial puts me at the NASA TT/ST ballast limit of 250 lbs. So here's where I am. With the various NASA ST/TT modification factors, at 162 average whp, the car needs to weigh 2465 lbs for ST5. Depending on tire and wheel combo, and how well the driver has been eating, we're currently right around 2165. 250 lbs of ballast takes us to 2415. I still need to find another 50 lbs to make race weight! I'll be adding the passenger seat back in (with a strong mounting bracket!,) headlights with popup motors, oil coolers, and a few other things... which should get me close. The nuclear option is to put OEM steel doors back on, but I really don't want to go there if possible!
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