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Everything posted by Shuka

  1. Same hit, different day. All the hard work on this swap is done. It just needs a new bottom end.
  2. At this point I think it's time to replace the motor. Apparently Ecotec blocks are prone to cracking due to the casting process (lost foam.) Even after a new head gasket and new water pump, I'm still getting a steady flow of steam coming out of the breather. I warmed up the car, stuck the breather hose in a water bottle, and ran the car on the street for 15 minutes. I ended up with this: On track I was getting a foamy oily liquid, which violently sprayed out of the catch can. My guess is the engine oil temperature on track gets high enough to flash off water as it's introduced to the crank case, making for a dramatic result. Looks like my holiday project will be replacing the Ecotec, after I finish replacing the K24 with a spun bearing in the other Miata. These engine swaps are cheap and reliable right? I honestly think the motor was bad when we bought it. The cams had surface rust on them, so I had to replace them when I first put everything together. We thought the rust was from sitting in a garage with the valve cover half off - but now I realize it was probably because there was a bunch of water in the oil!
  3. Hub stands are pretty awesome once you get them on the car and on the scales. The latter part is super hard if you only have a floor jack. I found it nearly impossible to set the stands on scales since the car moves so much with a floor jack (suspension travel also gets you.) Hub stand+quick jacks (or a lift) are wonderful.
  4. I replaced the head gasket on the Ecotec, and found what looked like a possible leak, but no real smoking gun. I took it out for a test day at MSRH, and since our trailer is in Austin to make way for the shop project, had to rent the only thing Uhaul had available... a car dolly. After one session, the engine bay was covered in oil/water foamy goo. The problem is worse than ever! Now pretty certain it wasn't the head gasket, few things remain and they aren't pretty (hole poked when they machined the head, crack in block...) Robert found someone online having similar issues and it turned out to be the water pump. The water pump is driven by a chain off the crank, so if the seal fails it will dribble coolant into the oil. I had noted that no coolant pressure seemed to be building up, but dismissed it due to a few potential leaks in the system. I replaced the water pump yesterday, with only the minor complication of dropping a pulley bolt down into the timing cover and all the way into the oil pan. I let it warm up and ran it for a while, and the coolant system is pressurizing and no more foam at least at idle. All that remains is to run it really hard and see if the problem persists. If so, it's time for a new motor.
  5. BUT THAT WOULD BE ILLEGAL AND YOU WOULD NEVER DO IT RIGHT? The old versions would let you but I think the latest versions disabled that capability.
  6. My husband insists we will some day have Huskies so I added one in there...
  7. I'd definitely go for the K still. The Ecotec is cool but it's just not a rev happy monster. It will be a solid choice for a TT5 or TT4 car. I distinctly remember every single time I drove the K race car getting a stupid grin on my face as it pulled to 8000 rpm. Something about an engine that pulls harder and harder all the way to redline.
  8. That's an impressive year! I did very, very little driving on track this year. NASA at TMS, a few DE's and ... that's it. Two surgeries, moving to a new house... life stuff. We DID finally break ground on our lifelong goal to have a big shop at our house!! Soon...
  9. In basic form no. The kit and wiring harness make no accommodations for the cat, EGR, evap, extra O2 sensor, various solenoids, etc. Without those the ECU won't show readiness and OK on the emissions systems. And no, Ktuner and Kpro won't let you cheat that. If you were determined you could make it happen... but it would mean coming up with your own solutions and fabrication to incorporate the emissions equipment into the swap, AND having the ECU be OK with the values your new exhaust puts out.
  10. Quick update! Prepping for NOLA I noticed a lot of oil residue on and around the catch can. I drained it and came up with nasty goop. I re-torqued the head and ran a test day, and after only a few minutes had the same problem. Water is getting into the oil. It's probably a bad head gasket but may be something worse. I'll be pulling the head to investigate. Progress is slow due to another major project... We're breaking ground on a shop project!
  11. Shuka

    1992 K24 Swapped Miata

    Ordering a new motor soon, I'm planning on an LKQ block unless someone has a line on a K24a2 from an Acura TSX!
  12. Will there be a test and tune on Friday?
  13. Shuka

    1992 K24 Swapped Miata

    🤦‍♀️ The car had oil pressure issues and was overheating on its first outing to the state inspection station a few miles away... After successful inspection, I pulled off the oil filter to find... And when cut open... This was a brand new oil filter, which I had put on when I removed the oil cooler sandwich plate. Just to make sure I hadn't done the damage in my 5 miles of street driving, I checked the original filter that came with the car, where I had literally just driven it on and off the trailer. Similarly full of shiny gold bits. Looks like we bought a car with a spun bearing. Edit: I let the previous owner know and he is helping with the cost of a new motor! What an awesome dude!
  14. Looks like ya'll had a great time!
  15. Shuka

    2001 JV6 Miata

    Did they fix the starter placement? I thought it hung super low and was prone to getting ripped off as well.
  16. Very nice! Driving an aero car is quite a bit different isn't it? You'll notice really good initial braking force, but of course as the car slows you lose grip, so be aware... threshold braking requires you to actually lift off the pedal a bit. Otherwise you'll lock up as you slow. If you brake into a corner then have sudden lockup for apparently no reason, that's what's happening. Also the best way to tear off a brand new splitter!
  17. Yeah, that could work! I mean, you can run what you built, but maybe incorporate that in the next revision.
  18. I've been increasingly interested in drifting... I know we have some organizations in Texas, but would like to know if anyone has experience and recommendations. What would someone want to bring to their first drift-day? Should I just equip one of the Miatas with a rear brake lever and welded diff, or show up with a bone stock car and go from there? Thanks!
  19. Oooh, I might be down! LMK!
  20. It's probably not necessary to support forward of the front air dam, but using the wire rope/turnbuckles just behind it would be a good way to add some support. You can loop the wire rope through the almost-hand-sized holes in front of the radiator, or find another anchor point in that general area. The nice thing about using flexible supports is that they won't bend when you impact something. I'm anchoring mine currently to the outer mount for the steel bumper... bumps? But I'm running a steel "drift" bumper, so it might not be accessible with the big plastic bumper in place. You're on the right track balancing rigidity with self-destruct capability.
  21. >Investigates bolt shear strength >uses bent right angles with no bracing and attaches them 6+inches behind air dam You're killing me dude! If it's doing what it's supposed to, the downforce will be concentrated right at the splitter/air dam interface, in addition to the forces on the air dam. That's where you need to support it! I've gone through development and destructive testing of 15+ air dam/splitter assemblies for NA Miata, and I see you making some of the same mistakes I made along the way. Do yourself a favor and properly support that splitter and air dam at the bottom, as close as possible to where the two meet. The way it is now, it will tear off and mess up your session, maybe break something else along the way, and then you'll have to build another splitter anyway. Again... ask me how I know these things... And how many time's I've spent Saturday evening after a race piecing together/repairing splitters and supports...
  22. Yup, those are the holes I was talking about. The balance here is strong enough to not come apart through normal use or gentle offs, but weak enough to break and tear away if the splitter catches on something. It's a tough call. If you go off a lot, it's not a terrible idea to carry spares for easy replacement at the track.
  23. NASA ST rules also dictate the undertray/splitter can't be any lower than the front fascia, so look out for that too. -Don't forget that your tires will be in a different position with the car on the ground -A good attachment point is to bring down vertical supports from the frame rails at the front; there's a bunch of M6-1.0 holes there for various things you can repurpose. Have fun!
  24. St00pidfast is in Houston too. He works out of Autobahn.
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