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About Shuka

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    Raccoon Engineering
  • Birthday October 11

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  • Track Vehicle
    ND Miata
  1. Super super glad the safety gear did its job and he's OK.
  2. WOOOO!!!!! Now to just unpack the garage so I can get to my tools.
  3. Updates... I'm STILL waiting on harness / ECU. I should have just built one myself instead of trusting the "professionals" to deliver on time. If you're planning on getting a harness / ECU from Alphafab or Swap Specialties, expect a lead time of 3-4 months (not weeks, even if they say so.) In the mean time we've moved. We had to flat tow to the new house. The new place has a lot more space and potential, but is a "fixer upper" for sure. Plenty of room to park the trailer and build a shop. Unpacking and organizing. I brought over a lot of material. We managed to un-bury the car yesterday. I received a "shipped" notice from Swap Specialties finally but the tracking number is still in pre-shipment. I haven't counted that chicken as hatched quite yet.
  4. The AC sucks and the transmission tunnel is a furnace. The NB's improved on most of that. NA Miata is also SUPER SLOW, so plan to be frustrated by the "speed up as you pass them" drivers. Even the ND is very noisy at highway speeds so if you have a long commute maybe get something with a solid roof.
  5. Primarily, I'm STILL waiting on a wiring harness / ECU. I've been promised delivery next week. I ordered a new one from Swap Specialties, and canceled the order with Alphafab after a few months. Alphafab started to mislead me instead of admitting they were behind on orders. Not OK with that. Some other things are going on too! I had surgery in December which took me out of the garage and off the track for a few weeks. And as Hollywood notes, we're closing soon on a larger house with enough of a lot (in unrestricted, non HOA area) to build a nice workshop! It won't be a fancy Terry Fair Farm, but a huge improvement. So moving and selling activities are taking priority over race car things. However I have gotten back in the garage recently to get some work done! I finished up the fuel line routing and connection. I wanted to make sure to minimize stress on aluminum fittings, so I ran the line to an AN union with gauge that's supported by a bracket, and then a short hose connects via a locking GM fuel rail AN adapter. I'm replacing the brake hard lines with stainless hoses, so they're just pushed out of the way for now. The locking connector for the barbed fitting is the way to go with this, instead of the push on type. I also finished up the coolant hoses, radiator mounting, and some of the duct work. As planned, I have a steam bomb accumulator tank in the back, which has a connection on the bottom to the thermostat housing below, and the "steam hose" from the high point of the head on the coolant exit runs to the top of it. This should automatically purge any air bubbles that end up in the system. I welded some brackets to mount the undertray. It's actually split between front and rear undertray, and everything is flush with the lower beam. I use 0.090 aluminum. The front half will pivot upwards like the previous iteration to facilitate trailer loading and potentially help mitigate damage in an off track adventure. To make sure I'm legal, I mounted up an unmolested OEM bumper and traced out the projection below for the air dam. I ended up pressure testing the cooling system, and both welds on the thermostat housing are leaking. I had trouble getting the part clean enough and just *sent it* so that's what I get. I'll order a new housing and try again.
  6. Yellow teflon is your best bet. I've used it for fuel pressure gauges on the rail and fittings and stuff and never had an issue.
  7. Yep! Too bad Terry Fair hates me now, or I'd ask him about steel outbuildings. We have a couple big steps before it's final, but we're committed at this point.
  8. 1. Build a big steel building 2. Put Miata things in big steel building 3. Maybe find time to race
  9. Super awesome! Congrats. I ordered one! :)
  10. 100 TW would be preferable for sure - Maxxis are my cheap go-to's. They last forever, have decent grip, and they're cheapish!
  11. Unlikely. No ECU/harness still. :( I have a good weekend of fab work ahead and need to swap the flywheel adapter too, which means pulling the motor.
  12. To expand, I think specifically it will attract: -Newcomers to TT, who don't want to pony up for R-comps but still want to compare lap times to similar cars -People that drive their car to the track and don't bring a second set of wheels -WRL cars that run 200TW, for testing or to just get seat time And to be honest, back in my more economical TT days, I was running 200 TW tires - and ended up on the podium sometimes to boot! Plus you have the eternal excuse of "I'm on street tires LOL!"
  13. Heck, why not give it a chance? I think ultimately it will encourage more participation in TT, which means more contingency, and more people that end up in ST doing actual racing. Worst case everyone hates it and we declare it a failed experiment, but I honestly think we'll have fun with it.
  14. The convex takes a while to get used to, and placement is key. I tried a wink mirror (the kind with a bunch of small mirrors at an angle mounted in it) and hated it. My most useful mirrors are the convex spot mirrors added inside the car at the corners of the windows. That's where you *need* to see more than anything in any sort of W2W. Again, the distorted view takes some adjustment but I have grown to love them. They're particularly nice because they see around the window net, and show you all the way down the side of the car.
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