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Shuka

Junkies
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About Shuka

  • Rank
    Raccoon Engineering
  • Birthday October 11

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Female
  • Location
    Houston
  • Track Vehicle
    ND Miata

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  1. You can also get fire-retardant "great stuff" expanding foam. We use it to fill gaps between cables going through fire barriers. They sell it at Home Depot, and it's red.
  2. Maybe next time. I love NCM, and Chin events are great!
  3. Correct! to get it perfect you'd have a second tank/regulator and purge the inside with argon.
  4. Yep. It "sugars" on the inside. With a V-band and flex pipe I'd use a pretty thick filler rod and leave a lot of material anyway. Corrosion won't be an issue.
  5. I can take care of it, I'm on the right side of town too!
  6. Thanks, but the fix worked! On the GM E67 ECM, you can get a tach signal from pin 25 on the J1 (blue) connector. pin 24 is a pull up resistor to make it useful for most tach-driven devices. I ordered some pins (Molex MX64 33467 Series Female Unsealed Terminal 0334670005, Cable Range 20 18 ga (0.50 0.80 mm2)) and added them to the J1 connector, then connected the wires together and to the Traqmate tach input, and it works perfectly. I checked the tune to make sure "crank" type RPM output is enabled - it won't work if the tune is set to serial or frequency engine speed output. To make room for the pop up headlights, I shortened the radiator hose and ran it through the duct wall. The radiator cap was still leaking despite RTV'ing it - I damaged the mating surface a while back while drilling / tapping the overflow port. I found a 1/2 NPT tap fits the cap neck, so I just tapped it and installed a plug. There's still a pressure relief cap on the expansion tank (steam bomb) so the radiator cap is not needed here. The garage is already pretty miserable hot, so we pulled the trigger on a mini split! And I'm still slogging along with the wiring. The center console houses a radio and a cheap Amazon special marine switch panel.
  7. More electrical work, including gauges and cooling fan. I ran it up to temp last night. -Oil pressure looks great (whew.) -Coolant drip from the radiator cap. RTV will fix that. -Cooling fan comes on, but never shuts off. Probably a tuning issue (shutoff temp below thermostat temp.) -There's no RPM output wire in the Swap Specialties harness. They responded that "those ECM's don't have a tach output, so you'll need an add-on RPM pickup from the coil signal." However some research shows that on the E67 ECM I should be able to get tach output from J1 pin 25, and J1 pin 24 is a pull up resistor for it. I've ordered some appropriate pins to add to the ECM connector and test it out. But really, the build is coming together pretty quick, and I'm excited to get it out on track!
  8. Oh dang, this might be a great alternative to getting an open trailer...
  9. Still a long way to go, but a big milestone... on the ground and moving under its own power!
  10. I use a band saw where I can and yes I did use one for that cut. It's not always practical since I'm using a small portable saw clamped in a vice. When it won't work I use a jigsaw and tear through blades pretty quickly. I was cutting tubing with the same saw and had my finger under the work. An ER trip and stitches later, I don't do that anymore.
  11. I had this idea a while back and am going to give it a shot: using Wago lever nuts for connections between the auxiliary stuff (gauge signals, power wiring for accessories.) We use these for household wiring instead of the traditional wire nut. They're very secure and easy to use. The orange carrier is sold separately for use on DIN rail. And continued work on the center console and gauges. This is the same gauge panel I used previously, but I remove the section on the left side, where all the toggle switches were. I would hit them with my knee getting in and out of the car. No bueno. I'll mount the toggle switches in the center console, along with the newly relocated master cutoff. I built a mount for the ECU in the lower right corner where the AGM battery was. I switched to a larger battery and moved it to the trunk. The fuse/relay box provided with the Swap Specialties harness mounted nicely on the center console. A lot of TechFlex to install and wiring to do, but it's starting to come together for sure. The front panel is on a piano hinge, allowing it to swing forward for access to the wiring. The cavity at the bottom is where the radio will mount. A better view of the ECU and mount plate. It's a GM E67 ECU from a Solstice.
  12. I wanted to do easy button on this one. There are a bunch of different ECU / harness combos for this engine and I didn't want the headache. Plus most stock harnesses have a body harness connector that has to be dealt with. I'm sure I could have figured out out, but this was much easier. This also came with a turnkey, pre-tuned ECU and a harness that fit right up with no extraneous connectors. Accepting the long lead time I'd definitely go this route again!
  13. Updates! Not surprisingly, we have been engrossed in massive house projects since moving in. Things have settled down a bit, and I'm working on the car again. Finding all the bits and pieces of car (things like V-band clamps) has been fun post-move. On Saturday I plugged up the harness and ecu, and hotwired the leads to a battery. It started right up and runs!! Everything seems to be OK so far. I tested the clutch engagement and seems to be working great. Expect a LOT more activity very soon. F The Swap Specialties harness/ECU took forever, but is actually a nice turnkey setup, complete with fuse box. This is definitely the easy button. Connect up power, start motor. I started on a center console to mount all the wiring, radio, Traqmate, etc. I'm moving the disconnect switch to the center of the car too. Long term plans are to build a defroster setup into this box as well. I can see a light at the end of the tunnel. The motor runs, car can move under its own power. Build momentum regained.
  14. For around $3k you can get a decent steel car hauler. Overall trailer width has to be 8'8" or less, yes. On the cheap end, you'll find wood deck farm/utility trailers with no dove tail and big heavy steel ramps (or no ramps at all.) They work OK. A steel deck dovetail car hauler is what you probably want. For length, keep in mind trailers are generally referenced by deck length, not overall length. An 18' trailer is actually 22-24' nose to tail when measured, including tongue and hitch. Built in ramps are a must-have for me. If it doesn't have them, it's one more thing to pick up, load, secure, etc. Electric brakes on both axles is also really nice, but uncommon to see more than one axle with brakes. Nice to haves can drive trailer cost through the roof. Drop down fenders to help with clearance, winch, tongue box, rock guard, tire rack, E-track...
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